About Ben

Hi, I'm Ben I have been in the business since 2005, worked in all areas including the installation of log cabins and their general upkeep and maintance.

Out Of Range Log Cabins 2021

Introduction:

A select range of log cabins at reduced prices, only while stock lasts.

Every now and then we have to have a clear out, just like we do at home. In this case we say farewell to some of our older beloved log cabin models to make way for new ones which should be with us in the first couple of months of 2022. To help us “clear the shelves” qucikly we are offering some very keen prices on the cabins that we’re saying goodbye to.

Often theres hesitation about buying a product thats being discontinued, questions often come to mind about the quality of something thats being stopped. There must be something wrong with it you may think!.. Well really.. there isn’t.

Don’t let that put you off as honestly, the only reason for their exit from our range is to make room for new buildings as apart of our yearly renewal. The service, after sales support or the quality will be no different to those staying with us for these end of range cabins.

WHICH log cabins are included

So, Which log cabins are they you may be asking yourself? Listed below for your convenience.

Mitch Log CabinMitch Log Cabin Gazebo 3.5 x 3.5m

Barbara Log Cabin GazeboBarbara Log Cabin gazebo 3.5 x 3.5m

UltraModern Log CabinUltra modern Log Cabin 3.2 x 2.6m

Hedvig Log CabinHedvig Log Cabin 3.8 x 5.8m

Gazebo Timber Base and Decking Kits

Building a gazebo ontop of a Timber base is nothing new, we certainly didn’t come up with the idea.. Unfortunately. Have you considered a Gazebo Timber Base Kit for your project?

That’s not going to stop us showing off some great examples of what our customer have achieved when combining a Timber Gazebo that they have purchased from us as well as using their own ingenuity to create something really special for it to sit over.

We’re a big fan of timber bases here at TUIN, we promote their use for our log cabins all the time while speaking to customers. We also go into some detail here with in our Timber base for log cabins support page.

Tuin Base/Decking Kits

As timber platforms for gazebos start to grow in popularity we are now also looking to offer basic timber base kits with our range of wooden gazebos. This is to make it as easy as possible for our customers to get everything they need from one place. They are available in either Larch to suit our Larch Gazebos and of course tanalised to suit our range of Pine gazebos.

We have calculated the Gazebo Timber Base Kit making use of our own range of garden timber and the sizes they come in. As such in most cases there will be some cutting on site to configure the base to be exactly how you want it.

The handy benefit of course with timbers arriving oversized is that you then have some flexibly on the day as to how big or small you actually want the base to be.

Timber Deck Kit Examples:

Let me show you what we mean by that.

In this first image you will see the timber deck expands out and beyond the post locations.

Gazebo timber frame with decking

Yet, in this one its been made to be smaller and tighter up against the outside of the posts.

Tuin gazebo enhanced with walls and decking

Both options are possible through the exact same kit as the sizes you choose ( with in the confines of the kit ) are decided on the day of installation.

You may also be interested to know that both of these gazebos are actually the same model. One customer of ours really went to town enhancing his purchase with extras making it a very useable space in the garden… we think so at least ūüôā

Some more examples here showing our wooden gazebos made ontop of some form of timber deck.

Ongoing Log Cabin Maintenance

Hello and welcome to what we hope will be a useful guide towards the ongoing Log Cabin maintenance.. yes it may come as a surprise to some but just like a lot things in this world, log cabins do need to be given some attention every now and then to ensure they operate as intended.

As much as we would love to provide you with a completely self contained product that requires zero maintenance it simply isn’t possible with this sort of building.

Please expect to have to perform the odd bit of aftercare.

Firstly lets just have a brief recap on how our log cabins are made so we can all get in the right frame of mind, by now you may have already installed your log cabin which means you will of already read our comprehensive online Installation manual, Or perhaps you’re still in the planning phase.. Either way we would suggest viewing the above to gain more clarity and perspective on the whole project.

Before I started working here, When I thought about “log cabins” I would immediately cast my mind to the wooden buildings seen in films made from round tree logs sitting in a snowy forest somewhere nice and peaceful.

Snowy Log Cabin

Yes Please

Who wouldn’t want to buy one of these right!.. although you may need to make some life adjustments or sell a kidney to stump up the funds for this sort of project.

Our Log cabins are made a little differently and we like to think more financially and garden friedly, they consist of flat solid wall logs in a range of different thicknesses, stacked ontop of one another which then interlock in the corners with Wind and Weather Proof Connections.

TUIN Log Thicknesses

28mm – 70mm Log cabin logs

These wall logs will in most cases rest on what we call Foundation Beams to bring them up and off your base, These foundation beams as a minimum will be pressure treated for longevity.

Standard foundation beam being used in a build

Basic Foundation Beams

Our basic foundation beams being used, protecting the first layer of wall logs

After the walls are up you then turn your attention to the roof, These come in different styles and sizes of course but the principle around them is the same. You start with the purlins/rafters then the roof boards are fitted on top to create the solid wooden surface to fix your roof covering to.

Lauren log Cabin being built

The roof being assembled on our Lauren 70mm Log cabin

Then low and behold!.. you have yourself a whole new building ready to be used for whatever you can imagine. looking for Inspiration?

Completed Lauren log cabin

A completed Lauren Log cabin

Easy Right… for some more information about fitting out buildings please also visit our Fitting Tips page.

So there we have it, thats the building up and ready to use but how do you keep it looking and performing as it should and what other considerations should you be thinking about to keep it a fully functional, problem free living space.

Perhaps the best way to go through some of the key points will be to break the cabin down into six areas .

  • The Base for the cabin
  • The Foundation beams
  • The Walls of the cabin
  • The Doors and windows
  • The Roof
  • Additional hardware and extras

Bases

The base is the first thing that gets laid and is critical for both the longevity of your building and its actual construction, i’m not here to talk about what base you should or shouldn’t use as all these details can be found with in our Base Support page already and in reality theres very little you should ever need to do to maintain it which is lucky as it becomes very inaccessible with a lump of a log cabin sitting on top.

However something to look out for would be subsidence, Let’s say you have a concrete slab, or a compact base with slabs on top.. with the weight of the cabin on top has it sunk it some places?.. hopefully not but its worth keeping that in mind to check if you find yourself with a misbehaving building.

Or perhaps you have built the cabin ontop of a raised Timber Platform and under the weight of the building one or more of the corners have sunk throwing out the top level like this unlucky customers did.

A sinking timber base

See the gap?.. Customers timber base had sunk in the middle

Luckily for this customer the timber base was fairly accessible from underneath so he was able to add additional support to bring it back level

Another important aspect of a base is damp proofing, using a Damp Proof Course ( DPC for short ) or a Damp Proof Membrane ( DPM ).

A DPC is generally used underneath your foundation beams, its purpose is to protect the underside of your foundations from rising moisture seeping up through your base as well as providing protection against ingress from the outside.

There are other ways to achieve the same level of protection, My favorite is to use a TAR product, painted on both the underside of the foundation beams and on top of the base that they sit on.. applying this thickly will also service in sealing the perimeter helping prevent ingress.

A DPM is used underneath the concrete slab or ontop of it, This will again protect the underside of the cabin/floor from moisture that tries to rise up from and through your base into the building.

Advice on using a Damp proof course in your base.

Advice on damp proofing

Ideas for Damp proofing

Preventing this moisture from rising up within the building is very important, it can cause unwanted growth with in the building as well as other Unwanted Issues.

garden-furniture-mold

Mold with in a cabin

Nasty right!

Ventilation does play a big part in preventing this as well which we will cover in a moment but if you notice that a once dry and mold free cabin starts to experience these types of problems then a review of your damp proofing may just be in order.

Foundation Beams

Now these are also very important and often in truth the cause of great confusion at first with our more traditional shed building customers.

So just quickly, Unlike a shed where you would expect to see a row of bearers all running the same direction with a floor built directly on top..

A normal Shed is built on top of a floor with joists underneath it

Typical shed base

A typical shed with bearers running the same way

The Foundation Beams service a different purpose for this type of building. they only span under the perimeter of the cabin (as well as any internal walls that might be featured).. What they DO NOT do is span in the middle where the floor goes later on.

Their purpose is to raise the first logs off and away from the base which in turn protects them and provides added room in the middle for a floating floor

We have different types of foundation beams to offer but they all serve the same purpose and will generally sit on top of your base with a DPC in between. This will generally be enough to keep unwanted ingress from entering your cabin but where two foundations beams butt join together you should think about enhancing these connections with a decent sealant/sealer.

Walls Of the cabin

Treatment

Well here we go, We are starting to get into this now as once the walls are up you can finally start to get a good feel for your log cabin, as we mentioned before the walls are made from individual logs stacked ontop of one another to from a very solid wall, They interlock in the corners with fancy Wind and Weather Proof Connections which go along way to ensure that your cabin remains water tight… But as we also explain this isn’t where the story ends and you cannot just leave the logs as as they are and expect the building to be watertight which leads us swiftly onto a very important part of maintaining your log cabin which is TREATMENT

So let’s start by asking a question.. What is Wood?

Wood is basically a Sponge and this is how you must treat each individual part of your cabin, if you zoom right into the endgrain you will see that it’s made from straws all joined together which was once used to draw water and nutrients to the parts of the poor tree that once needed it.

Wood is a sponge and is made up of straws all drawing water for the tree.

Close up of timber

Wood is a sponge and is made up of straws all drawing water for the tree

You can easily see from these pictures that when we look closely, wood is full of holes and it’s these little buggers that will be causing a problem as they all fill with water or, drain of water as seeing as we killed the poor thing there is no tension of water to rely on.

For an untreated piece of wood especially this is happening constantly, it’s trying to reach the same moisture content as the surrounding air. This is known a Relative Humidity and is a measurement of the amount of moisture in the air around us.

In the summer the wood will expel moisture and shrink, In the winter they will absorb moisture and swell which will loosen and tighten the joints where the logs interlock.

Prevention

A lot of customers will fairly just assume that “treatment” is only applied to safeguard the wood, stop it from rotting ect but in truth this is just one of its benefits. Treatment is also there to try and limit this natural movement as much as possible , We want to limit the amount those sponges can absorb and expel moisture by clogging up the straws contained with in.. we do this by reaching the recommended depth of microns.

A decent treatment should provide the following benefits

  • Protect the surface from weathering (including UV damage)
  • Seal wood on wood joints with in the cabins construction
  • Reach the required micon depth ( 80-120 microns ) which helps limit natural movement
  • Provide the desired finish for appearance

More information on Timber Treatment specifically can be found within the other support articles we offer

I hope the above all makes sense as it then leads on to the ongoing maintenance of your cabins walls. They must be treated and they must be treated well, please do not expect to only have to treat your building once throughout its life time and Please Please Please use a decent treatment in the first place.. To many times have we had angry customers over the phone shouting, screaming at how dreadful it all is and how disappointed they have become….to only find that they hadn’t applied enough coats, hadn’t kept up with the re-treatments or instead used a lets say “less expensive” brand in the first place.

We recommend our own Tuin Treatments or specific ones found locally such as Sikkens, Sadolins and Kingfisher which we know work well at achieving the desired depth of penetration.

You will not cut the movement out entirely which is fine because the building is designed to handle a certain amount without any fuss.

So as the logs of the cabin move ( which they will ) you may then need to re-treat certain areas of your walls, Paying particular attention to the end grain and interlocking notches where they join another wall, these are the most vulnerable parts. You will also need to make note and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines in terms of reapplying dates.

Overgrowth around the cabin.

This part is mainly aimed towards landscaping and storage rather than the cabin itself.

I’ll start by repeating one of our bold statements that we confidently make about the properties of timber, .. Wood will never Rot … we promise… Well, we also go onto say that so long as it is always ventilated, . so if it gets wet and is then allowed to dry it will be fine.

but what if it can’t dry?, What if air can never reach some parts of your cabin due to overgrowth, shrubbery, stacked rocks, Muck ect…

What if you decide to store things right up against the side of the cabins wall such as logs for a burner and leave them there for a few years while they season..

All of a sudden the wood will not be able to breath, vent and dry, Water could then sit there all winter which will eventually cause you all sorts of grief

Please be mindful of your walls, Make sure they are free from direct contact with anything which could cause a water trap, keep on top of your gardening in those hard to reach areas as if you allow overgrowth to take over it can really ruin your day… you may even decide to call us.. complaining about the timber quality in the first place… “sorry but its wood” we will tell you.. “it only rots if its not allowed to vent” we will try and explain… you won’t like that.

Daisy log cabin

A Daisy log cabin free on all sides allowing decent circulation

Movement In log cabins

As we know by now the walls of the cabin move as the logs Expand and Contract throughout the seasons, the design allows for that just fine.

But what if you want to fix something to the wall like a mounted TV bracket or some shelving to store those garden tools.. I always tell people they can do whatever they like to these types of buildings so long as they follow the golden rule which is.. “You must always allow for vertical movement with in the logs” further explained with in our Dealing with Expansion and Contraction page

Another consideration for some, if your cabin happens to feature vertical posts that supports a canopy or large overhang you will need to periodically check that the adjustable post anchor that we supplied is set at the right height to match the rest of the cabin.

So let’s say you happen to own a building like our Kennet log Cabin

Kennet Log cabin

Our 28mm Kennet Log cabin

Remembering that the wall logs expand and contract, that front post will need to be adjusted from time to time as the seasons change because it will not move to the same extent, This is achieved by simply adjusting the nut that sits beneath the smaller plate on the anchor.

Post anchor being adjusted

Post support being adjusted

Doors and windows

I think the best way to approach this section will be to start by gently reminding you that just like the walls, The doors and windows are predominantly made from wood, you remember all of those straws?.. Sponges.. yup this wood is no different

Sure,..the doors and windows tend to be made from timbers which are laminated together which does improve their strength and reduces the possibility of movement but its still wood and it still has those straws.

Treatment

The correct treatment of the wall logs is very important.. but I would personally say that the correct treatment of the doors and windows is even more so and here’s why

Unlike the logs, The doors and windows do not have the same luxury of being fully and always supported.. The wall logs are locked in place and would do well to move in any unexpected sense.. but the same cannot be said for the swinging doors and windows… they are only connected to the cabin via hinges which means if the level of treatment isn’t correct or sufficient you may eventually encounter unwanted warps or twists to occur making them much harder to operate.

When first delivered the doors and windows normally arrive deep with in the pallet, This is on purpose as it provides needed support and compression while in an untreated state to prevent warps and twists… but at the very least the pallets are always banded tightly.

Doors packed within a log cabin package to protect them especially from warping

How our doors and windows come packed

Doors packaged with in the log cabin package to provide compression, preventing movement

You then unpack the doors and windows, Please store them flat and again under compression until ready for installation and treatment. While in situ you need to be very attentive with your treatment and often customers will not give them the attention they sorely require. Treatment should be applied both sides evenly and heavily.. To many times we have had customers upset because their doors have warped and to find out after that they didn’t treat it fully or correctly..

An extremely warped door.

A twisted/bowed door

A very twisted door, Do we think this was stored correctly prior to installation?

Hardware

Luckily, even the most twisted door can be corrected with the simple application of a Turn Button or Key,.. you would have already seen these in action in gardens throughout your life time i’m sure as we explain within our other Support Page so don’t panic too much but like most things prevention is better than a cure.

Please keep on top of your door and window treatment.

Let’s move onto those hinges that we mentioned earlier, The doors and windows will come with their own style of hinges so you can operate and use them.. A lot of the time they are cup hinges that look similar to this

Two piece hinge forming a cup and spiggot. These can adjust the door in both planes.

Hinges commonly found on our buildings

Typical Cup Hinges

Now remembering what we discussed before, while treatment will limit the amount those pesky straws can absorb and expel moisture.. it will not cut it out entirely. You will at some point need to adjust the hinges of your doors and windows so please expect to do so, We go into more detail about this with in our other Support Page

A lot of the windows we send are top hung which operate from the inside via a simple Window Stay, we have all seen them and they do the job nicely

Its always easier to pre-treat the windows and doors before they are fitted so you can be sure of full coverage but sometimes this isn’t always possible. or perhaps it’s just time to recoat them following the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Top Hung Window

Common type of top hung window on our Emma Log cabin

If you find yourself having to unhang this type of window from the cabin please be aware of an important Safety point before you proceed. The hinges are only designed to keep the window in place with in the constraints of the supplied window stay which means if you lift it up further, the hanging part which contains the glass could slide off. Be ready to take the weight and seek help from another if needed.

Window Stay Limitations

Be careful when lifting the window beyond the stay limitations

While on the subject of door/window furniture, let’s also talk briefly about the actual locking parts, The cylinder, mechanism, latches ect

These are pretty much self contained but some considerations should be made such as occasionally adding some lubricant with in the metal workings so everything operates as it should.. you don’t want the metal parts seizing up.. also consider oiling the exposed elements to keep rust and corrosion at bay.

Also think about fitting a traditional hook and eye’s for your doors so that during use you can keep them securely open, what we don’t want is the wind catching your new doors and smashing them against the walls… thats how things break which nobody wants.

Hook and Eyes

Hook and Eyes being used on our Chloe log cabin

Glass

That’s about it for the actual hardware, but what about the glass that lets in that sought after natural lighting.. what do we possibly need to consider in terms of maintenance.

The panes of glass are dry fitted into a rebate contained with in the door or window, this is all done prior to delivery as it’s much safer to transport while in place.

The panes of glass can always be accessed if ever needed, they’re only held in by wooden beading which can be Removed With ease as we show with in our Glass Support Article

How the glass is held in place

Glass held in place with removable wooden beading

There’s a few things that we need to think about and one of them which is often not really considered is the seal between the glass and that wooden beading.. is it sufficient?

Going back to treatment by this point you will have fully treated both sides of your window or door right up to the glass.. This alone will typically be enough to prevent water from encroaching between the two surfaces and finding a way into the cabin.

You may also ask yourself, Surely they will come pre-sealed in some way right.. why wouldn’t they be…..?!

Well actually no, they do not. The glass is just dry fitted inside the rebate of frame… thats not because we couldn’t be bothered or we’re just trying to save a few pennies on some silicone here in the office to keep the accountants off our backs. It is dry fitted for good reasons!

Firstly, While the packing team do their best to pack the pallets in the safest way possible, we are talking about several tons of a log cabin being moved around and transported over huge distances by several hauliers so things can happen and your glass could arrive damaged ( rare but possible ) .. its glass.. it can break!

For those of you that have used silicone before you will know that it can act abit like glue at times.. so in the unlikely event that you receive your cabin and some of the glass is broken its then an absolute nightmare and down right dangerous to go around and dislodge the broken shards from the inner frame and in the past when units were delivered pre-sealed we received right ear falls from angry customers and rightly so.

Hopefully you agree and can see why we do not send them out pre-sealed, So once you have treated the frames in full and you then go on to notice ingress, all you need to do is either run some sealant along where the glass meets the exterior beading… or if you want you can remove the beading and silicone where the glass directly fits into the inner rebate instead.

Refitting the glass is the reverse of taking it out. If you wished to you could add a bead of silicone sealant although this is not necessary.

Sealant being used

Silicone being added with in the rebate

Movement in log cabins

Moving on slightly, Let’s think about how the frames actually fit into the walls of the cabin for a moment

Back to Movement again ( sorry ) The door and window frames are made with dry, fixing free U-channels which slot over the wall logs which means they will not constrict anything as it moves.

The U-channels are formed by what we call fascia boards… some call them architraves.. they’re basically just planks of wood screwed to the frame to create the U shape. These cover up the all important expansion and contraction gaps which are left above and to the sides of the frames ( please do not in-fill these gaps with anything )

Log cabin doors and window installation

Fascia boards fixed to the perimeter of the frame to create a U-Channel

 

So a few things we need to consider in terms of ongoing log cabin maintenance,

Have the inner sides of the fascias been treated correctly, fully? ..Well they should be as they also play a good part of sealing the outer perimeter of the frames.

Have you accidently sent fixings through these fascias which then also penetrate the moving wall logs underneath?.. if so please remove them as you will be preventing those logs from moving with the rest and you will most likely end up with gaps in between those logs.

Or, Perhaps you have noticed gaps around the door frame but are pretty adamant that there are no fouling fixings.. Try loosening the fascias and then re-tightening them.. if that doesn’t work then send us some pictures so we can have a look with you.

Maybe you have treated the underside of these fascias but you have noticed some signs of ingress? In this situation we may just need to enhance the seal between the two wooden surfaces.. Removing the fascias and adding silicone or draft excluders will normally cut that right out .. Just let us know and we are happy to send you some FOC.

Log cabin Extras

We can provide an array of Log Cabin Extras to complement your log cabin and their requirement depends mostly on the circumstance

Before we touched upon the importance of Ventilation which helps prevent moisture from building up within the sealed cabin, If you are not constantly in and out of your building should consider adding Air Vents to allow a continuous flow of air in and out of the building.

Also think about what you store within the cabin, White goods especially kick out a lot of moisture so be sure to install vents to combat that.

We also offer Storm kits as an extra, These are spring loaded metal rods which are used to ensure that the roof of the cabin remains tied down to the rest underneath, most applicable to those in very exposed areas or for those cabins with large exposed canopy/overhangs… please consider the application of a Storm kit

Shingle Glue is an option to consider, Very handy again for customers in exposed areas but generally if you are installing in the winter it is suggested to safeguard the shingles until you summer next rolls around.

We highly recommend Guttering for your log cabin, Not only will this help filter roof water to the desired location it will also serves in protecting the walls and perimeter further down from unwanted ingress and splash around the base.

We also sell a product which is very useful for coating the inside of the walls, Its called Impregnation Fluid on the website and is a very powerful Anti-rot, insecticidal treatment which you could consider, Please note that in inside of your doors and windows will need more than just this product alone.

Log Cabin Roof Maintenance

The roofs on these cabins should really be pretty self contained, so long as the roofing material was installed correctly there isn’t really that much you should ever need to think about.

Just keep an eye on any unwanted growth ontop, Moss can sometimes start to build up which should be removed as and when you can. Overgrowth can prevent the surface from ever drying out fully… also if you happen to install the cabin in the winter and moss manages to build up before the summer comes back around it could limit the amount of heat that gets to the tiles which is needed to bound all the those bitumen strips together.

An old log cabin shingled roof

Build up of moss

Serious overgrowth, Overdue a clear out we think

It will also be a good idea to periodically check underneath the roofs fascias for any nests which long term could start damaging the wood.

before those fascias are even applied they should be pre-treated as they are hard to reach once installed, Just like the other parts of the cabin you will need to revisit the treatment after a set timeframe and these higher parts are easily forgotten about and missed.

We hope this helps and we are happy to answer any unanswered queries that may come to mind, Please also revisit our installation manual for much much more.

Summary

  • Keep half a mind for your Log Cabin Base, Check the levels if you start to notice anything strange happening with the cabin on top
  • If you start to experience high levels of condensation within the building consider checking your damp proofing and joints between the foundation beams.
  • Remember that wood is a sponge, Keep on top of your treatment and please use something decent., Recoat those vulnerable areas and meet the guidelines set out on the tin.
  • Treat the doors and windows well and frequently
  • Fit hook and eyes to your doors to prevent unwanted wind damage
  • Keep your green fingers busy, Stop overgrowth from taking over and allow air to fully circulate around the cabin.
  • Do not create water traps around the walls of the cabin
  • Be mindful when fixing anything to the walls, Remembering your cabin likes to move
  • If you find water ingressing around the glass, they need sealing further
  • Guttering should always be fitted to better protect your cabin
  • Add Air Vents to prevent the build up of moisture
  • Consider the need for other log cabin extras
  • keep half an eye on your roof, remove overgrowth frequently

 

Winter Promotion!


Well, Its nearly December and we have already had some snow here in jolly old England…Tis the season. Not a great start with news of a new variant of the dreaded covid virus and the tightening of restrictions.

We really need something to be happy about so here we go, Black Friday may be over but what about some winter promotions of our log cabins.

For a limited time only we’re offering Mega savings on some of our most popular models.

**PRICES RETURNING TO NORMAL ON THE 31st Dec, Act fast before it’s too late**

Who wants a log cabin in this weather you may be asking yourself.. Well sure, its wet, its cold and dark but this is generally the best time of year to buy one of these things anyway with prices in mind, we talk more on this with in our best time to buy blog.

Starting from the 1st December, the following log cabins will be heavily reduced and will run on weekly countdown timers for an unknown number or weeks.

All log cabins included have a 40mm log thickness and double glazing making them ideal for all year round use. consider adding insulation to the roof and floor.

They also all fall under 2.5m in height and come supplied with free roofing Shingles. and tanalised foundation timbers.

Chloe Log Cabin 4x3m

Julia Log Cabin 3x5m

Peggie Log Cabin 3x4m

Karen Log Cabin 5×3.2m

Jackalyn Log Cabin 5x4m

Daisy Log Cabin 3.5×2.5m

Sophie Log Cabin 5.5×3.5m

Shannon Log Cabin 4.5×2.5m

Justine Log Cabin 5×2.5m

FREE 18mm Floor on Select Log Cabins

It’s not very often we will launch a promotion like this but you know what,.. its been a rough couple of years with covid related troubles mixed in with a global timber shortage. I think a little positivity and excitement is in order for our log cabin enthusiasts

We have had a few deals come up in the past, we offered a free upgrade on composite foundation beams https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/free-composite-foundation-beams/ back in 2019 which was very well recived.

Going live on the 25th october 2021 we will be listing coupon codes on this page to the same value as the 18mm floor option on a select few log cabins in our range, Don’t miss out as the codes do have an expiry date of the 30th November 2021.

18mm Floor for log cabins

18mm Floor option for our log cabins

Our 18mm floor arrives in packs which are then cut to size on the day of the installation, The packs contain the T&G boards, Pressure treated joists as well as some skirtings to cover the expansion gaps. For more information on how our floor arrives and are then fitted into your log cabin, please visit the following https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/log-cabin-floor/

Rules/Terms of the offer

  • The offer is only valid for new orders placed with in the specified timeframe
  • A valid code must be entered/supplied whilst ordering
  • The coupon value can only be used to offset the cost of the selected 18mm floor. If the coupon is used without the 18mm floor selected the order may be rejected

Thanks for making it this far, Now here’s the bit you really wanted to know. Which cabins are included in this offer and how does it work.

The offer is only valid on the following Log Cabin Models:

So how do you take advantage of this deal you may ask, let me explain the process

For Phone Orders,

Just be sure you have the code ready before you speak to an agent. they will then take you through the order process verbally and apply the discount for you.

For online orders,

Please start by selecting your chosen log cabin from the list above and visiting its dedicated product page.. Let’s choose the 40mm Emma corner log cabin for this example

Emma Product page

Product page for the Emma

We now need to chose any extras we may want, Including of course the all important 18mm floor, to do this we need to select the “options” tab

Selecting Options

Click on the Options tab

Now, Be sure to choose the 18mm floor from the list of options. Note: this will automatically increase the total but dont worry!. We haven’t entered the coupon code yet… this comes later on.

Selection of the floor

Select the 18mm floor

Once you’re then ready, Add the Emma into your cart and proceed to checkout. Once you have then entered your address details and chosen your preferred payment method you are then asked if you have a coupon to redeem.. That you certainly do.

Coupon Redeem

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And thats about it!. you enter the supplied code and hit the “enter” key on your keyboard to apply the coupon.

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Delivery in Time for Christmas 2021

Sorry to mention the C word already… I am very disappointed with myself too… in my defence the supermarkets have beaten me to it with their vast displays of festive chocolates.. its October… But still.. very sorry.

The reason for this post to spread the word, Delivery times for our log cabins and other types of garden structures are longer than they used to be, be sure to plan accordingly and allow yourself extra time if you plan on treating a loved one to a garden improvement.

So what’s on your wishlist this year, we have a huge range of log cabin, Larch buildings, Aluminium Verandas, Shepherd huts and much more to offer

On every product you will find a delivery timeframe, For the larger items you can chose your own delivery week just in case you need to postpone a little longer.

Promotional Pine Offer Cabins

Introduction

Only while they last, a select range of log cabins which have been made from slow grown Pine

All Available with FREE roofing shingles and the FREE option to have the building immersed ( recommended ) which will extend the lead time while the process takes place.

Pine vs Spruce?

If you have spent some time on our site already you may have seen that we talk a lot about the differences between Pine and Spruce, in short we explain that out of the two, spruce is the better one to use. This fact has not changed which is why our standard range is all and only Spruce.

Why are we offering cabins made from Pine?

During the madness of the last two years we have been through alot in the timber market, demand exploded and so eventually did the cost, and then of course a shortage. Our log cabins are normally made from slow grown Spruce but when stock started to run out our factories had to look at another means of keeping up with the demand and needs of our customers.

A small range of Pine log cabins were then produced to help ease the tension on spruce, all cabins included in this range are copies of Spruce versions that we already offer, the only difference being the species of timber used.

These buildings are now going to be offered at a reduced price which makes sense right, but is it a risk buying a Pine log cabin?

Pine being used in the garden construction industry is nothing new by any means.. Sheds, Gazebos, Bin stores and alot of other typical garden structures are normally made from treated Pine.

What’s the problem with a pine log cabin?

  • Pine is less dense and absorbs more water than Spruce so make sure you Treat it very well to avoid excessive expansion and contraction of your wall logs.
  • Pine is redder than Spruce and not as attractive inside your log cabin (Opinion) .. Treating the inside in a nice finish is of course an option.
  • Knots are looser in pine, there are generally more of them and they are more likely to fall out so before you apply your treatment I would recommend ‚Äėknotting‚Äô the logs first before you treat them.

What’s on offer?

Below are the building that we have available at reduced costs made from Pine.

Wells Log Cabin

Wells Log Cabin 3 x 3m

York Log Cabin

York Log Cabin 4 x 3m

Preston Log Cabin

Preston Log Cabin 4.4 x 3.4m

Lincoln Log Cabin

Lincoln Log Cabin 5.4 x 5.4m

Summary

  • We are offering these buildings at reduced costs with a FREE treatment option to help make up for the loss of them being made from Pine.
  • If you like the cabin but are not sure on Pine, no problem as we have the original Spruce version to offer
  • If you go ahead with a Pine log cabin, make sure its treated well with a decent product
  • Only while stock lasts