About Ben

Hi, I'm Ben I have been in the business since 2005, worked in all areas including the installation of log cabins and their general upkeep and maintance.

FAQ and help for log cabins and garden products


Hello and welcome to our frequently asked questions page, we know its important when choosing a company to purchase from that theres a decent support/after sales infrastructure in place.

We already have a very detailed online Support section as well as agents on hand to help via telephone and email but in addition here is another area where you can get some answers quickly to a whole range of questions that you might have.

General extras and recommendations

shingle glue

Q. Extra Shingle glue is available to purchase, But when is this needed?

A.Typically only needed if your building is somewhere very exposed, installed during the winter or will never get any sunlight to activate the bitumen strips

Q. How much shingle glue will i need to purchase?

A. All depends on the cabin and roof size in question, but on average for cabins up to 5x5m you will need 3 – 4 tubes to be covered

Q. How much glue do i use on each strip of shingles

A.Only a small dab on each downward facing corner as illustrated in the image adjacent

Q. Do our log cabins come with a floor included as standard?

A.With most of our cabins, the flooring does not come included as standard and is left for you to select as an optional extra. We leave this as an option, as some customers will not want a timber floor finish inside as they may be laying carpet or laminate down, so will do their own flooring to keep costs down.

Q. How will my floor arrive?

A.The floors arrive in generic packs which then need cutting on site to suit your building. Included are T&G spruce boards, pressure treated floor joists and skirting boards to cover the expansion gaps around the outside. We offer more help on our log cabin floors here

Log Cabin Flooring
Tuin Floor Thicknesses

Q. What floors do we offer for our log cabins

A.We offer two different options which effectively are the same albiet their thickness, We have 18mm and a 26mm to choose from.

Q. Will the 18mm floor be suitable for my cabins use ?

A.If you’re furnishing your cabin with standard items, A couch, a table with a set of chairs, side tables then the 18mm floor is perfectly suited

Q. Why would i need the thicker, 26mm floor?

A.You may choose this option when you know something heavier than the everyday item is going inside, Say a multi-gym, Treadmill or another piece of heavy machinery

Q. Do i need to fit guttering to my log cabin / garden building ?

A.Guttering is always a good idea, not only goes it help protect your vertical walls, it helps keep water away from the base of your building where the first log sits.

Q. How does the guttering fix to my building?

A.Our guttering comes with angled bracket adapters, These are important as the eaves boards are often angled, the adapter counters this to be parallel with the ground.

Q. Which guttering size do i need, 65mm or 100mm ?

A.There are two things to consider to this question, the scale of the guttering size compared to the size of the roof and the surface area of the roof. For smaller buildings up to 4x4m the 65mm works well. anything larger we would suggest the 100mm version.

Guttering for log cabins and garden buildings
IKO felt roofing shingles

Q. What are shingles?

A.Shingles are a form of roof covering typically used on garden buildings over traditional rolls of felt.

Q. Why choose shingles over rolls of shed felt

A.Shingles for a start look amazing, they create a tiled look and will last alot longer than most typical felt rolls.

Q. How are they fitted?

A.Starting from the bottom, working up. you lay tiles in rows working up the roof which then overlap each other. Please watch this video

Q. What free shingle options can i choose from?

A.We list the current available options for our Free Shingle Offer here

Q. Why would i need air ventilation in my building?

A.Often overlooked, ventilation is very important if you’re not constantly using your cabin. Air vents help air pass through your building while not in use. Heat and moisture can build up without it.

Q. What would happen without sufficant ventilation?

A.You will most likely find damp spores flaring up on the walls and furniture left inside

Q. How many air vents should i fit to my log cabin?

A.Generally at least two sets, on opposite sides and at opposing heights, for larger rooms more should be considered.

Q. How do i fit air vents to a log cabin?

A.Purchase a set that includes two plates ( for each side of the wall ), drill holes in the wood and then cover both sides with the vents. ( tip: adding mesh over the holes helps prevent unwanted visitors )

Air vents for log cabins and garden buildings
Foundation Beams for Log Cabins

Q. Foundation Beams, What are they?

A.Foundation beams are a safeguard to your building, They are lengths of wood/plastic that sit in between your building and your base.

Q. When would i need to use them?

A.The only instance where foundation beams would NOT be needed is if you’re installing ontop of a timber base.

Q. Which foundation beam is best?

A.We offer four main types as follows:

Q. What is EPDM?

A.EPDM is the best form of roofing material for flat and pent roofed garden buildings, Its a sheet of thick rubber that normally spans the whole roof with no overlap.

Q. How do i know what size to order with my cabin

A.Dont worry, this is already calculated for you on the cabins own product page.

Q. How does the EPDM attach?

A. Spray adhesive is supplied with the kit, we show how to install EPDM here

Q. How do i join more than one EPDM sheet together

A.The sheets can be joined by firstly overlapping one over the other ( at least 200mm ) and then applying a thick bead of EPDM Glue

EPDM for log cabins
Storm Protection for Log cabins

Q. How can I protect my log cabin from storm damage?

A.One of the most important things you can do is add some form of storm bracing up the height of your walls and fixing the first layer to your base.

Q. What can happen without storm protection?

A. Anything from the loss of some shingles, to the whole roof being blown off your log cabin, if in doubt always assume its needed.

Q. What storm protection can i use

A.We offer a specific metal Storm kit , But homemade versions are also possible, extra Shingle Glue will protect the roof covering itself.

Q. What is a Base?

A.Your base is what the building sits on, for log cabins it must be 100% flat and level, to at least the footprint size of the model in question.

Q. What can a base be made from?

A.Most commonly used is a solid concrete slab, but other options include patio slabs and;timber frame construction,

Q. How do i know what size to make my base?

A.We list a “min base size on all of our product pages, this is the minimum requirement for that model.

Q. Can the base be made bigger that my building?

A.Yes, but just be mindful that your damp proofing is spot on as you don’t want water seeping under the foundation timbers.

Log cabin base
Damp Proofing

Q. How do i damp proof my base?

A.Two things you can do, laying a Damp Proof Course ( DPC ) underneath the foundation beams and lay a Damp Proof Membrane ( DPM ) directly ontop of the base, Underneath any form of flooring.

Q. Why do i need to fit damp proofing?

A.The main reasoning behind this is to protect the underside of any timbers from laying directly ontop of your base, the plastic barrier protects the wood from rising damp

Q. Do i always need to fit damp proofing

A.Not always, We explain this in more detail with in our base information page

Q. Can I receive my delivery sooner?

A.The lead times shown on the product pages is always the soonest option possible

Q. How is a log cabin delivered?

A.We employ hauliers with fully articulated lorries with moffett, crabbing forklifts

Q. Where will my order be delivered?

A.We only stipulate a kerbside delivery, but in some cases the hauliers can deliver on your drive ( drivers discretion )

Q. Can i choose a specific day for my delivery?

A.In most cases no, not within the parameters of our standard delivery service. Log cabins and other garden structures all a delivery week to be selected.

TUIN Deliveries

Treatment of log cabins and garden structures

Impregnation fluid

Q. What is Impregnation fluid?

A. A treatment that inhibits the formation of damp spores and guards against fungus forming as well as other processes that may damage wood

Q. When would this be used?

A.This product is designed to be a base coat, applied underneath your weatherproofing treatment to add extra protection

Q. Can i paint over this with other paints/stains

A.Yes, but just be mindful of the colour if planning to use a stain ontop.

Q. What is Carefree Wood Treatment?

A.Carefree protect is a very effective an all in one wood / log cabin treatment

Q. How much will i need for my log cabin?

A.Each log cabin page specifies how much is needed with in their own description.

Q. Do i need to apply an undercoating or topcoat onto carefree?

A.No as the carefree is an all in one product, nothing else is required.

Carefree wood treatment
Log Cabin Treatment

Q. How important is it to get treatment right?

A. With log cabins, Very. They are made to handle a certain tolerance of expansion and contraction. If not treated you may find it becoming severe.

Q. What is the aim of applying treatment?

A.Two main aims which are protection and weatherproofing.

  • Protection: Protecting the wood itself from insects, fungus, damp spores, Mold and Rot
  • Weatherproofing: actually sealing the wood grain contained with in each length of wood as well as sealing all of the naturally featured wood joints throughout the structure.

Q. What is Immersion Treatment?

A.Wood is placed into a big tank of treatment and allowed to soak, being absorbed into the wood grain for high depth protection against mold, insects and fungus.

Q. Should i select this option for my log cabin?

A.While it does have it’s benefits on some models, it can be avoided on most with the correct aftercare and treatment

Q. If i have the building immersed, Do i then need to further treat it?

A.Yup, Sorry not that easy. The building will still need a full course of weatherpoofing

Immersion of log cabins

Log Cabin Fitting Questions

Q. My door has developed a slight bow, What can i do?

Fitting a turnbuckle/button to the door is a great corrective step, engaging the turnbuckle when the cabin is not in use will help and force the wood to revert in the right direction.

Q. How can i make the top of my pyramid or hipped roof cabin look nice?

We offer metal roof finials which can slot over the shingles to form a nice peak.

Q. Where are the plans to install my new log cabin?

These are contained with in the main shrink-wrapped pallet, wrapped and protected ready for when you unpack start checking off your parts list.

Q. Should i secure the very first logs of my log cabin to my foundation beams?

Yes we recommend this highly as it helps keeps things nice and square in the beginning phase of the installation.

Q. Does Tuin offer its own installation service?

Yes we do, although most prefer to take advantage of the self employed fitters whom we can provide details for as they have less overheads and are much more affordable.

Q. The Timber looks bare when i have opened the main pallet, is it not treated?

Unless specified differently, all our log cabins arrive completely untreated as standard.

Q. Can i install my log cabin in the wind, rain or snow

Absolutely yes, the wood isn’t going to get damaged by getting wet a couple of times.. tree’s get wet all the time, it’s fine we promise.

Q. What sort of lock is supplied with my cabin?

Most come with a Euro, 3 lever cylinder lock.

Garden Verandas From Tuin

Recently a very nice couple in Lincolnshire ordered one of our Large Garden Aluminium Verandas, It was a magnificent 10 x 4m structure with a very appealing “classic” style gutter system! The installers were all very jealous by the time they left.

We are normally just employed to supply and deliver the kit ready for self-assembly following our step by step English instructions and videos, But in this instance our own fitting team were also hired to perform the installation on their behalf.

This presented us with a unique opportunity to give one of our young apprentices a chance to both view and help with one of these things going together, It also allowed us to hear a younger person’s point of view which helped us understand some of the key concerns that our potential customers may have before ordering

Let me address some of them below based on what young Lee felt.

——————————————————————————————————————–

These Garden Verandas are sold as DIY kits ready for self-assembly, We have set sizes available for a quick delivery as well as more bespoke options to provide something more custom to suit your needs.

When seeing something like this online there could be some concerns that stop you from going ahead .. You may worry about getting it wrong or ordering the wrong thing or perhaps the concern lies with the actual installation, You may not know anybody that could do it for you… all fair concerns.

Let’s talk about the first,

“What if i order the wrong thing”

With our garden verandas it really is pretty simple we promise and we try and show this on our webpages as best we can, all you need to think about really are the points of contact between the veranda and your wall and garden.

How will it fix to our Wall?

The kits comes with a wall plate which will fix on the outside of your wall, this plate will be as wide as the veranda in question.. So a 3m veranda will come with a 3m wall plate. The wall plate needs a reasonably straight and flat surface to fix too but it doesn’t have to be perfect as most houses are not.

Verandas wall plate up against a wall

The best way to test this will be to grab a length of wood thats pretty true and offer this up against the wall to see, If you notice some variations on the wall then they can normally be packed out with something

Some outside walls will have obstacles running down them like drainage pipes for guttering or for things abit more personal from the upstairs loo . Sometimes even wiring, Our kits do not have adapters to take them around things like this so you will need to think about re-routing the obstacles to allow a clean fit of the wall plate prior.

Veranda Check

Excuse my bad drawing, It shows the back of a house with a pipe that could obstruct a veranda from being fitted above the door line.

Lastly regarding the wall plate you may ask how high does it need to be fitted?

To answer this we need to think about another question first which is “How tall do you want the walk through height to be at the low side ( the front ) of my veranda as its all to do with the set pitch of 8 degrees

An 8 degree pitch will equate to a rise of around 14cm for every meter of projection which will help us in planning the wall plates position, So here’s how we do it.

Let’s say we want a walk through at the front of 2.1m which is the standard most will aim for.

An example sketch from the side of a veranda

The side view of a Veranda

So we have our starting height which is 2.1m to the underside of the gutter and we know we need to go up 14cm for every meter the veranda projects upwards following an 8 degree pitch/rise.

In our example so far we have opted for a 3m wide veranda, so lets assign it a depth of 4m which is a very popular option. All we need to do is times 14cm by four to figure out the wall plates location

14 x 4 = 56cm

We then take our walk through height at the front ( 2.1m ) and add the calculated increase ( 56cm ) which gives us 2.66m

From this we now know that the bottom of your wall plate needs to be set at a height of 2.66m, Of course this will vary depending on the ordering size but the calculation and method remains the same.

Working out the wall plate height

Working out the wall plate height

So what to take from all of this and how to be confident you’re ordering correctly.

  • The wall plate we supply will match the width of your veranda, Will it fit unobstructed by anything on my wall?
  • The height that the wall plate is set at will depend on your walk through height at the low side, It can be calculated based on a rise of 14cm for every meter of projection
  • If in doubt, Just contact us.. no problem.

Lets take a look at the front end

How will the posts work and what do they need to fix too?

The number of posts that come will depend on the width and depth of the veranda you select, This is all pre-calculated so the webpages will advise you. These posts support the front ( low ) side of your veranda and one of them will also incorporate the drainage pipe from the integral gutter.

Back to our 3m wide veranda example, This would come supplied with Two posts, one at each corner at the front and looks a little like this.

An example showing the frontage of a veranda

3m Garden Veranda Example. Note in this instance its the left hand post where water will be draining, you can choose differently on the day when installing.

We supply leaf catches with in the kit, This prevents all the gunk that may accumulate on the roof from entering the drainage pipe, instead it will stay with in the gutter so just like your house you may need to clear it out once in a blue moon.

So how do those legs fix to the ground you may ask. Well, we offer a few different options to suit your base and this is where you need to choose what’s best for you. the list of options and descriptions can all be found on the product pages but if you need more clarification then we are very happy to help over the phone or by email.

Veranda Foundations Options

Our Different Foundation Options for the Posts

That really is it for this concern ( What if i order the wrong thing ).. there isn’t a lot to it so we hope this has given you more confidence but as we say, If there are still doubts then just contact us as we are always here to help.

Perhaps you may also be worried about installation?

“My concern rests mostly on the installation”

Putting garden veranda together on the day may seem like a daunting task but in reality it may not be as bad as you first think, customers will buy from us all the time with the confidence to install it themselves so we hope you will to.

The instructions we supply are in English and show you what to do in a step by step manner. On top of that we also have a clear video and bags of online advice and support from our experienced team over the phone and by email.

We do of course offer installation services as well for those who are not so keen but our hope is with the clear cut information we supply you will feel confident enough to save yourself some labour charges and tackle this yourselves

Perhaps you know someone who is more on the handy side.. offer them beer or a nice glass of wine and they may be willing to help.. promise them a BBQ with no expenses spared.. make a day out of it

My point is that you don’t need to be a professional to install these things, they’re user friendly and we are always here to help if you get stuck.

What to take away?

  • Fitting isn’t as bad as you may think, we promise
  • We send Full English step by step instructions
  • We have a detailed video, available on the product pages prior to ordering
  • People like free booze, Use this to your advantage
  • We are here to help if you get stuck!

A very stunning veranda

We have many examples but this might be my favourite

Timber Deliveries

We here at Tuin offer a wide range of Garden Timber used for all manners of projects. But with timber, as any merchant will tell you, delivery can sometimes be tricky due to the lengths they’re sold in and the overall weight.

If we were lucky enough to have a number of branches scattered all over the UK then it would be easier as we could employ our own local drivers on our own fleet of flatbeds… but we aren’t quite there yet and only have the one depot here in Norfolk.

Tuin in Norfolk map

TUIN – Norfolk

So how do we deliver these products which can be rather awkward at times, you may ask yourself.

We have two ways of doing it and it all depends on one important aspect which is the total weight of your order, If ordering the odd couple of lengths then chances are we can safely dispatch them with a smaller and cost friendly multi-drop courier.

But, If you’re ordering larger and bulkier lengths.. or high amounts then we may have to offer our secondary delivery method which is actually a full blown, Artic truck driving haulier with specialist Moffett forklifts (the same haulier that delivers our log cabins and other garden structures).

The website is all set up to calculate this for you so you don’t have to start doing any unwanted math, just add what you would like to order to your cart as well as your address to obtain a delivered price.

Or perhaps you don’t want to pay for someone else to deliver your timber, In which case a Click and Collect option is available on all timber pages.

Both the courier we use and the haulier have different prices for each zone of the UK so its important to input your address correctly to ensure the correct price is displayed

Pent Installation Roof Advice

A little insight to how you can format the parts of our Modern log cabins

If you would like to follow along to a video tutorial, see our Installing a Pent Log Cabin video filled with tips on ensuring the longevity of your Log Cabin.

So you have built up your new log cabin up to roof height and you will come across a sight like the one below, the skeleton of a roof ready to be finished off.

Up to roof height with purlins added

I have made a quick guide which I hope proves useful, there are different methods in doing this roof style that you may prefer to use.

Firstly lets identify all the roof components that we will eventually call upon, in this case we have the two-tiered eaves boards for all four sides, squared battens and a mixture of mounting slats and blocks, sometimes the eaves boards for the longer cabins arrive in half lengths which when offered up to one another span the full required length. 

Identifying Roof Components

A good opportunity is often missed at this stage which is treatment and plenty of it as a lot of these parts become very inaccessible once you get further along, for more guidance on what treatments to use you may be interested in the following; https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/log-cabin-treatment-again/

To begin with let us install the mounting blocks on the front and back of this particular log cabin, these provide more support for the eaves boards when you fit them, sometimes these blocks can be fitted to the sides instead, depending on the model, to fix these I am going to use a two of the 60mm screws at each point.

Starting to install the mounting blocks

Please do not think too long and hard where the mounting blocks need to be placed, as if the plans in front of you do not show a specific precise location, as the eaves boards may have arrived disassembled as shown in the second image above, just place them in a realistic fashion and copy the same for the back.

Mounting blocks also fitted to the back wall

The mounting blocks have all been fitted, so now it is time to think about making up the eaves boards, in this case we have been supplied with a narrow and a wider board, these two together make up the full eaves height, you may have seen that the plans are telling me to use the wider boards on the top, so let us do just that.

Eaves boards ready to be assembled

To join the two boards together we need to use the mounting slats supplied in the kit and identified earlier, anything can be used including spare pallet timber.
Please pilot drill these before securing them, by doing this with any wood you can be more sure that the wood will not split or crack, make sure their locations are correct, use the roof as a guide lining up the slats with the blocks already in place or take measurements.

Offering Eaves boards up to the fitted block locations to aid positioning

Screw the mounting slats all onto one side of the boards, I used 30mm screws which worked nicely.

Screws sent though the mounting slats into the eaves boards

Mounting slats lining up with mounting blocks and overhanging the wall logs/purlins.

Mounting slats lining up with mounting blocks

Now we have all the eaves boards made up as well as all mounting blocks and slats fitted, we then need to think about how we want the chosen roof material to be formatted.Roofing Felt, Easy Roofing or EPDM

Felt, Easy roofing and EPDM Roofing for our pent roofed log cabins

Fitting roofing felt, Our aim is to fold this under the roof edge on all four sides of the roof securing it into place using the supplied battens or sourced trims.

Fitting Easy Roofing ( ERM ) this is an easier solution to roofing felt and requires no nails as its all self adhesive, A heat gun in the colder months of the year is suggested to enhance the overlaps

Fitting EPDM now we save the best until last! The Epdm rubber roof, supplied with a spray adhesive and laid straight onto a “clean dust free roof”, like with the easy roof you would dish this up on the inside faces of the eaves boards on all four sides or just the front three

FELT ROOFING FIRST

We do have a video showing how felt in general is laid which for the basic principle is important as well as our very detailed online installation manual for pretty much everything you would need to know about getting the cabin constructed from the ground up; https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/tuin-tuindeco-log-cabins-instruction-manual/

but more specifically here for a pent roofs which we hope helps further.

Assuming it is felt that we are fitting today we need to get the roof boards on before anything else, However what we like to suggest at this stage is to temporally tac your front eaves on first as this then gives you a line to offer them all up against knowing they will be correct.

Eaves boards fixed to the blocks ready for the roof boards

You may find that the mounting slats obstruct some of the roof boards from sitting flush so I am trimming them down, or I could have trimmed the relevant roof boards instead to slot around them.

Cutting the mounting slats so the roof boards fit flush, The roof boards could be trimmed instead where required

With the slats trimmed the roof boards sit flush against the inside face

When you go to fit the last roof board you nearly always need to rip it down to allow it to sit flush with the ends of the purlin(s)

Remember to use two nails or screws per board at every junction as the roof boards are key to strengthening the whole building, in the summer leave a 2mm gap
in-between each board whereas in the winter you close them up as tight as possible.

After that you can then remove the front eaves board as its time to fit the felt.

As mentioned, we really want to get the felt wrapped round the ends of the roof boards and under, most cabins come with battens to attach the felt under the boards, in this instance I have been supplied with the two long lengths as shown in a previous picture, I will use these and any other spare pallet timber to secure the felt if needed.

An example of how to finish the roofing felt around the ends of the roof boards

Another example showing how to overcome obstructions

You will at points have to work your way around the mounting blocks, purlins or wall logs, you could remove the blocks temporally while the felt is fitted. you can also leave the felt simply wrapped round the sides of the roof boards to avoid the obstacles but just be sure they are secured down in some way either using Felt Glue or clout nails, Ideally both.

After the felt is fully installed you can then fit all your eaves boards around all sides, the natural gap at the back is there to allow the water to drain off the roof

Expect a gap at the back of the roof, This is for drainage

EPDM or ERM Rubber Roofing

For more specific guidance on the actual installation of the rubber itself, Please visit the following for support and advice

https://www.tuin.co.uk/Easy-Roofing-Membrane.html

EPDM on LOG CABINS roofs.

For this cabin we opted for the Easy roofing as it is the best with no overlaps, the same fitting aid also applies for the Easy roofing, for these rubber options I am going to dish the roofing up on the front three sides then wrap it around the back to allow the run off.

After the initial stage of fixing all mounting blocks onto the cabin I am going to go ahead and fix all four completed eaves boards onto the sides of the roof.

A close up of a corner, Mounting slats cut and uncut as preferred

An extra pair of hands is useful for this part, but you could use clamps if you have some large enough. I screwed through the outside fascia of the eaves boards through the mounting slat into the mounting block with two 70mm screws at each point.

Eaves boards fitted at the back, Note they sit higher than those at the front due to the roof pitch

All eaves boards in place and ready for roof boards followed by the EPDM roofing

With them all fitted to the perimeter of the roof I’m ready to fit the roof boards following the same process as we did for the felt part of the guide.

Dishing of the rubber roofing can be formatted in different ways, As an example you can just have the rubber coming upwards against the inside face and apply a hidden trim to cap it off, however it is best to actually wrap the rubber around the top of the eaves board and down the other side as it helps prevent any possible ingress under it, you can then cap this off as you wish.

You may like to cut the mounting slats down on the front three sides like we did for the felt approach early as this makes offering the Epdm rubber roof easier to lay on the inside face of the boards.

Roof boards start getting laid, Remember two nails per board at every junction

Examples of how the rubber roofing can be dished up

Then for the back where the natural drainage gap is we are going to wrap it around the side of the roof boards, Some fitters at this point will actually make cuts into the tops of the blocks so they can get the EPDM wrapped further around, But you can just glue and tac the roofing to the sides

Some fitters will be very clever at this stage and actually cut a channel into the tops of the mounting blocks, eventually fitting a guttering length directing the water into a downpipe, you may need to increase the wood size of the block used depending on the gutter size, you can then glue the EPDM into the inner face of the gutter instead.

With a channel cut on the back overhangs you can fit a guttering length rigged up to a downpipe

I will mention once again that the methods above do not have to be strictly followed, “like anything in this world there are always room for enhancements!. “So fill your boots ladies and gents” and have a go. Any questions please feel free to contact us for advice