Pent Installation Roof Advice

A little insight to how you can format the parts of our Modern log cabins

So you have built up your new log cabin up to roof height and you will come across a sight like the one below, the skeleton of a roof ready to be finished off.

Up to roof height with purlins added

I have made a quick guide which I hope proves useful, there are different methods in doing this roof style that you may prefer to use.

Firstly lets identify all the roof components that we will eventually call upon, in this case we have the two-tiered eaves boards for all four sides, squared battens and a mixture of mounting slats and blocks, sometimes the eaves boards for the longer cabins arrive in half lengths which when offered up to one another span the full required length. 

Identifying Roof Components

A good opportunity is often missed at this stage which is treatment and plenty of it as a lot of these parts become very inaccessible once you get further along, for more guidance on what treatments to use you may be interested in the following; https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/log-cabin-treatment-again/

To begin with let us install the mounting blocks on the front and back of this particular log cabin, these provide more support for the eaves boards when you fit them, sometimes these blocks can be fitted to the sides instead, depending on the model, to fix these I am going to use a two of the 60mm screws at each point.

Starting to install the mounting blocks

Please do not think too long and hard where the mounting blocks need to be placed, as if the plans in front of you do not show a specific precise location, as the eaves boards may have arrived disassembled as shown in the second image above, just place them in a realistic fashion and copy the same for the back.

Mounting blocks also fitted to the back wall

The mounting blocks have all been fitted, so now it is time to think about making up the eaves boards, in this case we have been supplied with a narrow and a wider board, these two together make up the full eaves height, you may have seen that the plans are telling me to use the wider boards on the top, so let us do just that.

Eaves boards ready to be assembled

To join the two boards together we need to use the mounting slats supplied in the kit and identified earlier, anything can be used including spare pallet timber.
Please pilot drill these before securing them, by doing this with any wood you can be more sure that the wood will not split or crack, make sure their locations are correct, use the roof as a guide lining up the slats with the blocks already in place or take measurements.

Offering Eaves boards up to the fitted block locations to aid positioning

Screw the mounting slats all onto one side of the boards, I used 30mm screws which worked nicely.

Screws sent though the mounting slats into the eaves boards

Mounting slats lining up with mounting blocks and overhanging the wall logs/purlins.

Mounting slats lining up with mounting blocks

Now we have all the eaves boards made up as well as all mounting blocks and slats fitted, we then need to think about how we want the chosen roof material to be formatted.Roofing Felt, Easy Roofing or EPDM

Felt, Easy roofing and EPDM Roofing for our pent roofed log cabins

Fitting roofing felt, Our aim is to fold this under the roof edge on all four sides of the roof securing it into place using the supplied battens or sourced trims.

Fitting Easy Roofing ( ERM ) this is an easier solution to roofing felt and requires no nails as its all self adhesive, A heat gun in the colder months of the year is suggested to enhance the overlaps

Fitting EPDM now we save the best until last! The Epdm rubber roof, supplied with a spray adhesive and laid straight onto a “clean dust free roof”, like with the easy roof you would dish this up on the inside faces of the eaves boards on all four sides or just the front three

FELT ROOFING FIRST

We do have a video showing how felt in general is laid which for the basic principle is important as well as our very detailed online installation manual for pretty much everything you would need to know about getting the cabin constructed from the ground up; https://www.tuin.co.uk/blog/tuin-tuindeco-log-cabins-instruction-manual/

but more specifically here for a pent roofs which we hope helps further.

Assuming it is felt that we are fitting today we need to get the roof boards on before anything else, However what we like to suggest at this stage is to temporally tac your front eaves on first as this then gives you a line to offer them all up against knowing they will be correct.

Eaves boards fixed to the blocks ready for the roof boards

You may find that the mounting slats obstruct some of the roof boards from sitting flush so I am trimming them down, or I could have trimmed the relevant roof boards instead to slot around them.

Cutting the mounting slats so the roof boards fit flush, The roof boards could be trimmed instead where required

With the slats trimmed the roof boards sit flush against the inside face

When you go to fit the last roof board you nearly always need to rip it down to allow it to sit flush with the ends of the purlin(s)

Remember to use two nails or screws per board at every junction as the roof boards are key to strengthening the whole building, in the summer leave a 2mm gap
in-between each board whereas in the winter you close them up as tight as possible.

After that you can then remove the front eaves board as its time to fit the felt.

As mentioned, we really want to get the felt wrapped round the ends of the roof boards and under, most cabins come with battens to attach the felt under the boards, in this instance I have been supplied with the two long lengths as shown in a previous picture, I will use these and any other spare pallet timber to secure the felt if needed.

An example of how to finish the roofing felt around the ends of the roof boards

Another example showing how to overcome obstructions

You will at points have to work your way around the mounting blocks, purlins or wall logs, you could remove the blocks temporally while the felt is fitted. you can also leave the felt simply wrapped round the sides of the roof boards to avoid the obstacles but just be sure they are secured down in some way either using Felt Glue or clout nails, Ideally both.

After the felt is fully installed you can then fit all your eaves boards around all sides, the natural gap at the back is there to allow the water to drain off the roof

Expect a gap at the back of the roof, This is for drainage

EPDM or ERM Rubber Roofing

For more specific guidance on the actual installation of the rubber itself, Please visit the following for support and advice

https://www.tuin.co.uk/Easy-Roofing-Membrane.html

EPDM on LOG CABINS roofs.

For this cabin we opted for the Easy roofing as it is the best with no overlaps, the same fitting aid also applies for the Easy roofing, for these rubber options I am going to dish the roofing up on the front three sides then wrap it around the back to allow the run off.

After the initial stage of fixing all mounting blocks onto the cabin I am going to go ahead and fix all four completed eaves boards onto the sides of the roof.

A close up of a corner, Mounting slats cut and uncut as preferred

An extra pair of hands is useful for this part, but you could use clamps if you have some large enough. I screwed through the outside fascia of the eaves boards through the mounting slat into the mounting block with two 70mm screws at each point.

Eaves boards fitted at the back, Note they sit higher than those at the front due to the roof pitch

All eaves boards in place and ready for roof boards followed by the EPDM roofing

With them all fitted to the perimeter of the roof I’m ready to fit the roof boards following the same process as we did for the felt part of the guide.

Dishing of the rubber roofing can be formatted in different ways, As an example you can just have the rubber coming upwards against the inside face and apply a hidden trim to cap it off, however it is best to actually wrap the rubber around the top of the eaves board and down the other side as it helps prevent any possible ingress under it, you can then cap this off as you wish.

You may like to cut the mounting slats down on the front three sides like we did for the felt approach early as this makes offering the Epdm rubber roof easier to lay on the inside face of the boards.

Roof boards start getting laid, Remember two nails per board at every junction

Examples of how the rubber roofing can be dished up

Then for the back where the natural drainage gap is we are going to wrap it around the side of the roof boards, Some fitters at this point will actually make cuts into the tops of the blocks so they can get the EPDM wrapped further around, But you can just glue and tac the roofing to the sides

Some fitters will be very clever at this stage and actually cut a channel into the tops of the mounting blocks, eventually fitting a guttering length directing the water into a downpipe, you may need to increase the wood size of the block used depending on the gutter size, you can then glue the EPDM into the inner face of the gutter instead.

With a channel cut on the back overhangs you can fit a guttering length rigged up to a downpipe

I will mention once again that the methods above do not have to be strictly followed, “like anything in this world there are always room for enhancements!. “So fill your boots ladies and gents” and have a go. Any questions please feel free to contact us for advice

Daisy Log Cabin and Annexe Show Site Build

Hello everyone! So, while I (Meg) was out of the office for a week, the office still continued to work non stop! I came back to christmas decorations everywhere and a new showsite install! At first I was a bit disappointed the installation of the Daisy Log Cabin and 28mm Side Annex without me but one of our new/training sales assistants, Becky, told me she carried out some of the installation! Its an excellent way to learn about our products and how they are installed and she was even so kind enough to do her own write up about it for you guys!


Becky writes as follows: 

I’m new to the Tuin team and wanted to get hands on in the assembly of a log cabin to gain a better understanding of the process behind it, enabling myself to then be able to give personal and experienced advice to our customers as part of the Sales Team.

I would just like to point out that when I started I had absolutely zero DIY knowledge, skills or experience.
Furthermore assembling the cabin in the cold, rain and snow was also an experience, although it was a great opportunity to prove that bad weather never hinders the construction of a cabin, apart from my cold fingers!
Additionally, I can confidently say that building a cabin is not as hard as I first believed. Once you know what you’re doing, everything just slots together and before you know it it’s up!

On my third week of training I was given the opportunity to construct the roof on the Daisy and build the annexe on the side.
I put up my step ladder inside the cabin alongside one of our more experienced members of the team and together we fitted the roof of the Daisy. It was all tongue and groove so the pieces of timber literally just slotted together and then we nailed it in.
For starters I had never even held a hammer before this point let alone hammer roof nails in!

Roofboard Installation

Seems like the sun came out to give you the perfect selfie lighting- The roof behind you is looking great!

The further along the roof we went the space to put up the ladder was running out, it was time to get on top of the roof!
I was surprised at how sturdy it actually was because I was prepared to be falling through. So there I was at the end of November on my knees nailing on the roof boards. (Though because I was the one to put my name in to helping.. I did make sure to wrap up! It was just very cold haha)
In between multiple cups of coffee purely to warm up my insides, the roof was on.
It was a good opportunity to gain an understanding of the natural contraction and expansion of timber. But with a firm knock into place the roof looked pretty good if I do say myself.

Log Cabin Wall With Coffee

You look energised for your future tasks thanks to coffee!

Then came the shingles, what I perceived to be the next challenge but they in fact were also very easy to do! We started from the bottom of the roof, with the first set upside down to ensure coverage of the roof, and from then on worked our way up to the ridge.

I was then trusted enough to build the annexe by myself. Just me, the timber and the plans…

Firstly I made a level base with just three pieces of tanalised timber, I secured the annexe base using screws and then screwed the base into the side foundation beam of the Daisy Log Cabin; ensuring my base was 100% flat, level and square I was all set to go.
The starter half logs are simply put normal logs just cut in half so that they have a flat bottom, making it easy to sit on top of the foundation beams. You don’t have to, but I screwed these onto the foundation beams just for extra stability.

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From here on the rest of the logs just slotted on top of each other, about five logs up I stopped and lowered the door into place. I was clear to see that it was a good thing I didn’t go any higher as I wouldn’t have been able to lift the door up high enough to slide it into place. From here I continued to knock the rest of the logs on top of each other.
Then it came to the roof, which was pretty much exactly the same as the Daisy Log Cabin but thankfully not as high.

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I started from the front of the annexe and worked my way towards the back, The roof boards were also tongue and groove making it nice and easy for them to all slot together. I was nailing these in as I went two at the top, middle and bottom onto the purlins.

It’s not quite finished yet, just the shingles to go, but overall it was an enjoyable first experience of building a Log Cabin and Annexe. By continuously referring back to the plans and taking my time to make sure it was all accurately in place, I was very successful.
It really emphasised to me how important it is not to look at all of the bits of timber and panic, because by following all of the steps, checking the plans regularly and taking it bit by bit it’s actually very easy to do. My new nickname is now ‘Becky the Builder’.

Just awaiting my next Cabin to construct! 🙂


Some superb work Becky! An excellent addition to the show site, and thank you for telling us how it all went, I’m glad you’re looking forward to your next installation!

You can start your next DIY adventure with the Daisy Log Cabin and the 28mm Side Annex available on our site.

To read more about our showsite installations, there are also ones on the Kennet Log Cabin and the Lennart Log Cabin installation blogs!

Kennet Log Cabin Show Site Build

Hello everyone!

I know it hasn’t been long since the Lennart Show Site Build post.. But I had so much fun writing it I just couldnt wait much longer for the next one!

For those who have been to our showsite, you should remember the Stig Gazebo Log Cabin that was to your left. We’re giving this area an upgrade by replacing it with the Kennet Log Cabin! (It fitted well with our current base and decking) Unfortunately our apprentice sales assistant Andrew was needed in the office for this build, so its all up to our experienced installers Wayne and Phillip to install this beauty!

As I like to stress in my posts, organisation is very important to save time when building a Log Cabin, so I was more than willing to help organise and lay out the parts needed to start installing the Kennet.

Kennet Logs Organised

You’ll thank me later guys!

Now these two didn’t waste any time with installing this cabin, they headed off to an amazing start. Leaving no log behind! (even the small ones at the end of the gazebo that I found amusing).

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The next thing I knew the windows were fitted and the walls were getting taller than me!

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During this process of watching and keeping warm (thank you to the Lennart overhang for keeping me dry!) watching these guys became a trance.. Most of the time they didn’t even need to talk, one turns around and the other has a mallet ready for them, it was almost magical? If you have heard of a bromance, this is what I call the true sight of it.

Once the walls reached the last log the long 5m log was installed to the front of what will become the Gazebo, to keep this log up there is a post that’ll go to the other end to hold everything up (no pressure, support post). And this is where things turned technical… As you can see from the first image below, the decking is too high. This is because the decking was laid for the Stig Log Cabin, which is shorter in height.

There were spirit levels, a state of “Up a bit.. No, too high..!” and a chisel involved with resolving this problem, but not too long after the boys managed to do it! And now the gazebo will be level with the Log Cabin.

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The next step was installing the apex, which from writing the last post I was thoroughly educated on.

Kennet Cabin Apex

Apex.. Not Perspex!

Then the guys stopped for a break, which is great until.. It sunk in that all I have done during these stages was organise the logs, stand under the Lennart and take photos.. Which in their eyes, immediately made me the delegated coffee maker (I made the coffee a little weaker than usual so I wouldnt have to do another coffee run anytime soon hehe).

With coffee consumed and plans revised they were once more at it again- with no signs of stopping their speed anytime soon! Their next plan of action was the continuation of the Gazebo.. Now at the beginning of this I was confused by the cut of this corner section, they’re very slanted and I was concerned there would be issues with interlocking them.. But turns out I was wrong, just a few seconds longer than any other log to make sure it was all aligned!

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The purlins for the Kennet were ones I’ve never seen before, with these two circular ends on either side of the wall, the rest of the purlins were installed by interlocking one end to the wall, and screwing the other end to the circular pieces:

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Then, you guessed it.. The installation of the roof boards. This seemed to me like it would take longer to complete compared to the Lennart, so I left the guys in peace while they started the roof. In the meantime, I was writing the Lennart Show Build post.

With a few breaks away from the computer every now and then, I was sucessfully able to capture their progress on the roof boards:

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Now, the part where I learnt some things.. Number one, the smell of timber is very pleasant (no lie). Number two, the small nails in your general fixing kit are called Clout Nails.. And are for fixing the shingles to the roof boards! For the Kennet we decided to use the Brown Rounded Shingles from our shingle selection. In order to save time (and build the bromance) Wayne started securing the shingles while Philip finished up the rest of the roof boards, before helping finishing off the shingles.

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Unfortunately the guys ended up finishing the cabin in my absence for writing (“Let me know when you finish the roof and start the doorframe and overhand thingy” I said.. But noo”) But I did get Wayne to go through the process of how they finished the cabin off: They installed the door frame the same way they did with the Lennart, and installed the triangle overhang by placing it down from above and screwing it to secure it:

Log Cabin Doors And Overhang

And with those last two pieces to the puzzle, everything tied in together beautifully! All ready for treatment.

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Amazing work guys.. The Kennet Log Cabin was slightly more complex to install in my opinion (with the gazebo being a main aspect of the install), but definitely not impossible! I wonder what the next show site cabin will be..

To become thoroughly prepared for your Log Cabin Install, I highly recommend that you read Richard’s Fitting Advice Pages. You will also find more specific articles that may help when you look at the ‘Important Information’ tab on our Log Cabin pages.

If you haven’t read my first post about the Lennart Show Site Build Andrew and myself went though, you should certainly do so! As well as one written by our sales assistant in training, Becky helping with the Daisy Log Cabin and 28mm Storage Annexe!

For more posts like this, from a customer’s point of view check out our selection of Customer Pictorial Reviews.

 

Jenny Log Cabin Review

I’ve been so excited to share this with you guys since I’ve seen this come through in my email, so thank you to Mr T for sending this in and making a bright situation in such gloomy weather. Lets see how they turned their Jenny Log Cabin into a Cabin you couldnt miss from a mile away!


Mr T writes as follows: 

This is my overview and review and of my Jenny Log Cabin build, from Tuin.

I took a long time deliberating between different type of Cabin; sizes, profile, make and design and eventually settle for a Jenny Log Cabin from Tuin. It is 4.5 x 3.5m, which is slightly better in my opinion than the original 5.0×3.0m I was thinking of. The more square layout gives better usable space IMO.

I opted for the Jenny for the combination of design (I wanted a reverse apex design as it gives a better “frontage” yet doesn’t appear overly large), thickness of logs and Georgian-style doors and windows. It was going to be my garden gym, which probably mean it will be a summer playroom for me and the boys.

The seed started when we first move here just over 3 years ago. The garden was very overgrown with some very unkept Cherry Laurel that have overtaken almost a third of our garden. Hidden within this was a 6×10′ shed which has seen better days. We decided that it needed replacement. However, the shed stood on a concrete foundation that must have been created after the laurel have had many years to spread out. As such it was awkwardly positioned well out into the middle of our garden, to one side. Keeping a shed there will not do at all and we also wanted something a bit better – much better. Our search expanded to log cabins and that was when it all started.

Having chosen the Jenny, we needed to expand the concrete foundation as the existing foundation was too small. We toyed with the idea of just adding to the existing foundation but given its undesirable position, we ended up needing a new foundation entirely. A tradesman was called in for this and, given we would still need a shed of some sort, we wanted to have a single foundation that would cater for both the Jenny and a shed next to it – efficiency is the buzzword after all, especially since the tradesman will be doing this at the same time.

Anyway, back to the real story about Jenny. The package arrived well packaged delivered by a large articulated HGV straight from Holland with a forklift attached. It scared the neighbours silly when the forklift drove down our road with the package (5m long) across the road but luckily the forklift has some amazing manoeuvrability and the package was neatly deposited on our drive. It did stay there for a couple of weeks untouched as I needed to ensure the space was ready to receive it.

The Packaged Jenny Log Cabin

When there was finally a good weekend-weather window the job begins. On unpacking and taking inventory, there were quite a few “additional” planks which were used to securely package the items. However, this also makes it quite a challenge to determine which are originals and which are packing planks.

As usual, some of the wall log pieces were a bit warped but the video from Turin reassured me that this is quite normal as there are techniques to deal with warped wall planks since they interlock.

There were also a couple of very long (5m) square planks which, for whatever reasons, were extremely warped but at the time I thought little of them thinking there will no doubt be ways to deal with them. These were in fact the eave slats for the roof (used to stiffen the edge of the roof board and provide a surface to nail the fascia covering) as I later discovered and turns out to be a much bigger problem than I anticipated

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So first step was to lay the foundation beams. I bought the recycled plastic foundation beams as these would never rot. Getting these cut to the right size and angle was actually quite a challenge as they are just slightly too big for my mitre block. In addition, as they only comes in 3m length I had to join them for all 4 walls – well 3 actually as the front has the gap for the door anyway. Given the importance of getting the foundation absolutely squared, this was IMO the most critical step in the entire build. With the unpacking/checking and moving the logs into the garden ready for the build, setting the foundation layer took me into the following day. In fact, it took me almost another 2 hours the next day before I was happy to proceed. I also had the help of my lovely wife to check the squareness of the base layer as once it started going up, you don’t want to undo it!

Log Cabin Base

Before I started the build, I also laid down a layer of DPM (plastic membrane used to prevent rising damp). I know the advice was only to lay it under the foundation pieces and then, once the build is completed and the floor is ready to be laid, to add the floor covering at that stage since it could get punctured during the build. To be honest, the DPM did get a bit battered with all the foot traffic but they stayed intact. In any case they were cheap enough that I bought twice the required amount which allows me to have a second layer once I am ready to install the floor. With 2 layers of DPM I think I am pretty protected from rising damp!

Jenny Cabin Installation With DPM

Once the foundation layer is in place, the walls go up surprisingly quickly. You do need a good (heavy) rubber mallet for this which was something I found invaluable. I bought a 32oz (about 1kg) white rubber mallet just in case my (smaller) black one would leave marks but was very glad for the heavier mallet, which really help to hammer the logs into place. The few pieces that were warped were helped into place using a couple of good, strong Irwin Quick Grip XP clamps. The door frames (which needed to be put together from the 4 separate pieces) goes in after 5/6 layers of wall logs. BTW, be careful when putting together the door frame especially the stainless metal covering the bottom piece – it is very sharp and will easily slice your fingers. Don’t ask how I know.

The windows go in once you get up to the right level. Be sure to get the window frames down squarely and adequately as if not, you may find later that the first full length log will not fit. It had me scratching head for quite some time before I figured this out.

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Once the final wall logs are in place, it is time to fit the apex logs. At first, I was worried that it would be in one piece (which can be quite heavy) as you will need to raise it quite high. However, it comes in normal, log size pieces which interlocks into each other via T&G so quite easy to install in the end. Installing the long roof purlins fixes the apexes in place and make the whole structure very stable. Next step is installing the roof boards!

Jenny Roof Purlins

Installing the roof was the most onerous job in my build. The fact that the cabin is sited close to the edge of our property and under the existing hedging conifers (which I wanted to keep as much as possible) means that one half of the roof had to be installed under the conifers. Installing the roof boards was actually not so hard as you can do this from inside the cabin using a step ladder/platform, but the roof shingles was an entirely different challenge. Also, because of the proximity of the conifer I ended up having to jigsaw off about 5cm along the entire length of the roof once it was already in place – due to the proximity of one of the conifer tree.

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Once the roof boards are on, it was time to install the shingles. These came free with the cabin and we got the rectangular one. We would have preferred the hexagonal shingles but as it is free, one cannot complain. This took quite some time to complete especially the half that is under the conifers. I had to crawl along the roof under the conifers with very little headroom whilst measuring, cutting and nailing the shingles in place. It was the hardest part of the build but also a tremendous sense of achievement once completed. I have to admit the shingles really finish off the cabin in fine style.

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We also bought the floor kit with the cabin, since this finishes off the cabin nicely. The thought of using OSB boards after the personal effort and attention of the build makes me cringes. As the floor is inside, there was no real rush to do this but unfortunately, there were a couple of weekends of heavy rain so exterior work has to wait. The floor boards were installed in a similar fashion to the roof boards (in fact, I think they are the same except for the numerous finger joints that exist with the floor boards) but here you have to cut all the boards at exactly the right place in order to ensure both pieces can be supported by a floor joists at the joint. I used plenty of nails and luckily there were plenty supplied.

I was really keen to ensure the exterior of the cabin is protected ASAP. For this we got Sickens Rubal Saturn Plus in a specially mixed colour, with complimentary shade for the door and windows. These are the “thickest” protectant we could found which is recommended by Tuin. We also got the Rubal Undercoat to make sure the final colour is nice and uniform and to give it 3 coats in total – I don’t intend to have to repeat this in the future and the attention and details will only be justifiable when the whole thing is “nice & new”. These paints were really good – nice and thick with strong opacity but boy, they do take some effort. Luckily, there were quite a few days of good sunshine, but I had to take extra days off work just to make sure the painting was completed.

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With everything completed, it was time to deal with the interior. We wanted to keep the natural wood look inside but thought it best that the floor is protected. Unfortunately, there doesn’t seem to be clear equivalent of the Sickens Rubal, so we ended up with Tuin’s own recommended Carefree Protectant Timber Treatment. We don’t need that much but as you have to order 2 tins, we thought that if they are anywhere as good as claimed, we would be more than happy to use them for our garden furniture as well. Applying the Wood Protectant to the floor was very quick and the Protectant goes on extremely easily – almost like painting on water in fact. Once we have applied one coat of the Wood Protectant we apply another, normal coat of wood varnish to reduce wear. This also gives it a slightly darker shade, which is actually quite nice.

Overall, I am very pleased with the quality of the Jenny Log Cabin and the service from Tuin. I would definitely recommend Tuin for their quality cabins which are quite reasonable price-wise. The free shingles, if you get them, is a no-brainier and really completes your build.

A few thoughts and tips from my experience:

  1. Use some good, large brushes when applying the protectant to the exterior. There is so much surface that you will be glad to have a decent brush which can cover the area quickly.
  2. Be careful when installing the Georgian door & window frames. The frames are very simple wood strips which you have to nail to the door/windows. They are not bespoke made so can leave some doubts as to how they fit. In addition, they are not really long enough thus leaving little space to put the nail. In fact, I cracked both my window panes as the nail hits the glazing. With hindsight I now understand why so many of the builds do not have these frames installed (even on Tuin’s own website).
  3. I would recommend getting the best wood protectant you can find. The amount of work required to do this will outweigh any cost considerations and you will regret using cheap stuff (or just end up doing a sloppy job).
  4. Get a decent rubber mallet (ideally white so that it doesn’t leave marks).
  5. Make sure you have a good set of strong quick grip clamps as you will need these when installing warped logs or the roofing eave slats. They are also an extra pair of hands which you will find invaluable at times.
  6. Take your time with the roof shingles (if you are using them). They take some time to install but the quality and appearance of a well laid roof shingles really add the cherry to the cake.
  7. With the cost of the cabin and effort required to build, I would strongly recommend getting at least 2 layers of DPM so that the interior and floor are protected from any rising damp. They are also not expensive.
  8. You will most likely need an impact driver to install the first layer of logs onto the foundations beams. If not be prepared for some cursing and sore hands.

If you do decide to go for one of these log cabin, be prepared for some real hands-on action and I hope the above write-up would provide some assurance. I am a reasonable DIYer but nothing in this build can be considered difficult. The initial start is the most anxious part but once you are on your way, it is really not that difficult – certainly within the capability of most competent DIYers. The satisfaction and sense of pride after its completion, however, will be there to enjoy for decades thereafter. Good luck with your build.

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Thank you to Mr T for such a lengthy and informative review! As for some of your confusion that you guys may have with the window and door frames- They are for decoration purposes and aren’t very thick in terms of the timber. For the Georgian look you will have to be careful with installing them, some people tend to opt out for them as they don’t like the look- But they are featured on some of our showsite buildings!

Why not look into the Jenny Log Cabin for your unique garden canvas?

For more in depth customer reviews such as Mr T’s, browse through our Pictorial Customer Reviews.

Lennart Log Cabin Show Site Build

Hello everyone,

So as you may or may not know, I (Megan), haven’t been a member of Tuin for very long- which means that my knowledge of Log Cabins and installing them are limited to the posts I’ve read made by Richard.

He often mentions about how easy it is to install a log cabin but honestly, I thought it was mostly him talking from experience so when I was asked to capture the new show site buildings being installed- I decided to take this opportunity to learn as much as I could to improve my blogs and hopefully show you how I have evolved from a DIY newbie to a little less of a newbie. I’m considering of making this a series of all the new show site buildings that will be installed in the upcoming months, maybe we should call it ‘Megan learns some things’ or ‘From DIY newbie to not so newbie’. Obviously those titles are very bad, maybe you could leave a comment for your ideas below.

And also I must disclose, I am not a physical/manual labour type of girl. So my report on this will be through watching the installs, not partaking in them.

So, to get things started… 

The first new Log Cabin on the Show Site will be an updated Lennart Log Cabin to replace the previous one, we’ve even managed to persuade one of our apprentice sales assistants Andrew to join in with the installation, as this will be a great learning experience for him too.

Now, Andrew and I are very similar.. Both at the age of 18 with little DIY experience and always on a keyboard, we were definitely are out of our comfort zone.. Wish us luck!

Lennart Installation Plans

Now Andrew started off confident with this project, with the help of our two experienced servicemen we were confident that the Lennart will be installed by the end of the day! With the base already been made from the previous Lennart, it started off smoothly with Andrew going around in a square to fit in the wall logs.

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With only minor mistakes (such as almost putting in one of the incorrect logs at the front of the building till he soon figured afterwards why I was giggling on the sideline) he was doing well! Maybe he would of been better and avoided this by frequently referring to the Log Cabin plans. Though unfortunately our experienced men found this progress rather slow, so they soon started to help and the walls were quickly heightening.

Incorrect Log Example

If you looked at the log and looked at the plans.. That wouldn’t of happened..

As they reached seven logs (I believe) high, they installed the ‘half log’ for the window. Which turned out to be as simple as sliding the window into the grooves of the half log, when doing this I recommend to add a few of the smaller logs on either side of the designated gap to ensure that the window slid in straight, see below:

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Around about this time, Andrew began to structure the doorframe. Please note: That this actually was done the wrong way round (again, might of been avoided with the assistance of the Cabin plans..). Hopefully what I captured should explain what happened and how we resolved it, also take note of the captions of the images for more detail:

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With the doorframe in and a coffee consumed, it didn’t take long at all for the three guys to finish installing the walls of the Log Cabin, then straight onto the Apex. Now, admittedly I thought apex referred to a different material type, but it seems to be the triangular shape (in this case) that connects and supports the wall logs to the roof logs/purlins. Also, I have just been informed that I was likely getting it mixed up with perspex!

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As you can see above, the ‘slanted slots’ (as I call them) are cut out for the purlins on both sides, so all you will have to do is simply slide the purlins into both ended slots. We prefer to screw down the purlins into the apex for more security, it’s not strictly required.

Now… This is where things got repetitive (and slightly boring to watch). The guys then took the first roof board (for the overhang), ensured it was level and used the clout nails to secure the roof board at the top, middle and bottom of the board. Lining up to be nailed on the center purling, the middle/support purling and the cabin wall.

Lennart Overhang Roof Boards

Our roof boards are also made with interlocking timer, so its a fairly simple process to side the next roofboard in place, make sure its align with the previous one and nail it down. The interlocking process kind of reminds me of how you would install laminate flooring. Then you go onto the next one.. Than the next one.. Etc.

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For the last roof board there was a slight overhang, so to make it look neater we marked where the roof boards should finish and cut it to size using a circular saw.

Last Roof Board Adjustments

Then, you guessed it, you repeat with the other side! Admittedly, I left to continue to work in my warm office by the time this was happening. When I returned all of the roof boards were laid down and nailed- hurrah! We also added an edge/trim to the Lennart ready for the guttering to be installed fully leveled, this will happen after the cabin is treated.

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To finish off the body of the Log Cabin, Philip showed me how you would install doors for your Log Cabin. It seems to be a simple process of aligning the middle circular hinge in between the two already on the doorframe and pushing the provided pin in place. During this we had also noted that the door hinges appeared to look rusty, we apologise if this has happened to you. If you notice this on your Log Cabin Doors then please email us with pictures for reference, and our service team will send some new hinges for you to replace.

Double Door Installation

Then, came the monotonous part.. The one everyone tends to get bored of doing.. Fitting roof shingles. The shingles we used for the Lennart Log Cabin was our Red Hexagonal Shingles.  The process was long and I honestly spent most of it in the office, by the time I came downstairs to take this picture below, all enthusiasm and motivation from Andrew’s eyes were fading. He was tired, legs hurt (maybe after a few more show cabins he’ll be used to manual labour..) and was tired of lining up shingles. But it was all worth it in my opinion, by the end of the office day the Lennart was installed! And it looks stunning, amazing job guys!

Red Hexagonal Shingles

Over the next few days the Lennart Log Cabin will be coated with our Clear Carefree Protectant Treatment.

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I hope you enjoyed my view from this article on our new Lennart Log Cabin show building, and a big round of applause for Andrew who helped Wayne and Philip install this beautiful cabin. Let us know if you enjoyed this and wish to see more with our other future show site installs!

After watching this process, it really does seem that Richard wasnt oversimplifying the process- If you read and keep looking at the plans provided and read all of our pages for Fitting Log Cabins, it seems rather easy! Though it may get more complicated as the larger show buildings start to be installed.. And maybe if you yourself are carrying the logs and installing them.. I’ll keep you guys updated!

Again, I believe the process will be easier once you have read our Fitting Advice Pages.

You will also find more specific articles that may help when you look at the ‘Important Information’ tab on our Log Cabin pages.

There are also a few more showsite installation posts, like another one of mine with the Kennet Log Cabin as well as one written by our sales assistant in training, Becky helping with the Daisy Log Cabin and 28mm Storage Annexe!

If you enjoyed this post, you may like our other installation reviews sent in from our customers at: Pictorial Customer Reviews.

Lauren Clockhouse Log Cabin Review

One of our customers was very generous in sending a review of their Lauren Clock House Log Cabin (previously known as the Special Ben), with plenty of images to show you guys the installation progress! We do love receiving images here at Tuin, so thank you Mr F for sending this to us!


Mr F writes as follows:

We were both extremely impressed with the quality of the material and the thought and precision that had gone into the preparation of the kit of parts.

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The 1st of 3 packages arrives, expertly manoeuvred by Barry, the truck driver. Each load was 20ft long and weighed about 1.7tons. By the second image there was a total of 5 tons of shed. Due to a lack of planning on my part they were going to remain unwrapped for about 2 weeks as the ground work was completed.

Work starts on the base about 08.00hrs. Quite a bit of soil had to be removed to
give us a level area. A load of scalping is delivered to the pit, in all, 12 tons was used to form a base for the cement.

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Kharn, the builder, with his whacker plate consolidates the scalping and the
shuttering is leveled. We finished at 20.30hrs – a long day but the pressure was on as we had booked the ready mix lorry for 08.00hrs the next morning.

Leveled Out Shuttering

Impressive work in just one day Kharn!

Day 2 at 07.55hrs, 13 tons of cement arrives… A small dumper truck was used to bring the cement to the site and frantic tamping continued for over 2 hours until all appeared level – very hard work!

A couple of days later and with the concrete hardened the rear bank was ‘landscaped’ and a trench for gravel dug at the base.

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Monday, Day 1 of construction at about 08.00hrs. The lower beams had been treated the day before and the black items are lengths of the plastic base material. The walls progressed nicely and the plastic base strips have just been cut to fit and slid under the lower logs. Note the log which will eventually be fitted above the door, has been temporarily positioned to keep things square despite the gap in the front wall.

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How the joints between the front and rear wall and the middle wall were to be made was a mystery to us but the long logs with vertical holes near the joints gave us a clue and answered the question, ‘what were the square pegs for?’.

The square pegs or ‘wall dowels’ had their corners and ends rounded slightly which still resulted in a satisfying tight fit but with less chance of splitting the logs. The 3 on the left have been treated with a belt sander. About 1 minute per peg and about 60 pegs in total. A pencil mark at the halfway point was useful when banging in.

Wall Dowels

Don’t worry Mr F, these can confuse most people!

About 12 hours after we started and we realise that it’s quite a big Log Cabin!

Installed Walls

The Lauren Clockhouse Log Cabin is one of our longest products!

Day 2 and the roof is progressing well. For the first 2 days of construction there were 3 of us working with lots of carrying from storage area to site and quite a bit of head scratching as we searched for various specific logs. Three pairs of hands were useful as we positioned and fixed the heavy purling.

A start is made nailing the tongue & groove roof boards into position. Much later and all of the boards are fixed. Rain was expected so we protected the roof. Probably no need to but it made us feel better.

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Day 3 was mainly spent nailing floor boards. The nail gun chose a bad time to fail and resulted in much manual hammering. Day 4 was mainly spent fixing shingles to the rear. A slow job but looked good when done. Ladders R Us.

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Day 5, the small gable comes in 3 pieces which we screwed together at ground level then lifted into position. Inevitably, it complicated the fixing of shingles on the front and it was quite late on the Friday before we finished. On days 4 & 5, some time was spent hiding from the heavy showers which slowed us down a little.

We used some heavier timber to trim the base of the roof to provide a substantial mount for guttering. Note the notches required to fit it around the left, right and middle wall. With a bit more thought I could have cut the timber longitudinally to a better shape for the gutter brackets but now I’ll have to custom make a mounting for each bracket.

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End of day 5. It looks like the finished product but still needs a lot of detail work and much brushwork. The most important pieces of paper. A list of contents annotated by me with the log positions and the detailed diagrams showing each log position.

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Happiness is 3 empty pallets. Progress would have been quicker if I were able to unpack and lay out in piles all the various bits of timber. The sheer quantity of wood (and the animals in the field) precluded that, so quite some time was spent rummaging for specific pieces as required. The timber had been cut very accurately and we found that the lengths on the plan, accurate to the millimeter, were very useful in identifying the required log.

Empty Palettes

True happiness indeed!

As garden buildings go, this was a big project and I wasn’t too surprised that the main build took 5 days. Kharn, a professional builder, and I were very impressed with the quality of the material and the accuracy with which it had been prepared. The joints were well thought out and accurately milled although we were dealing with significant lumps of timber and found a club hammer, with protective wood, more useful than a mallet! Even a sledge hammer was found a use in squaring-up the part built walls. Apart from the nails in the floor and roof boards, and the wall dowels, virtually no other fixings were used. The wall logs and purlins stay in position because of the clever joints while the entire building sits steady on its base because of its weight. The packing had been very well done and, as far as I am aware, no parts were missing. Indeed, the supply of plain wood parts seemed generous. Although
there were 450kg of shingles we were a little concerned that we would run out. With 378 shingles we finished the roof with 2 remaining – very well judged by the manufactures.

Overall, I’m a very happy customer and, more importantly, so is my wife! An outstanding product at a bargain price. As the Americans would say, ‘A lot of bang for your buck’. Many thanks for the excellent service and the experience of the build has got my builder friend thinking of buying a smaller version for himself. I hope to have the staining and guttering done soon and will send you a picture of the finished item.


Thank you again Mr F for a detailed and informative overview of your installation process for the Lauren Clockhouse Log Cabin. It looks great and we can’t wait to see your pictures for when it’s completely finished! I hope you and your wife enjoy your log cabin!

Other customer experiences, build articles and tips can be found at: Pictorial Tuin Reviews.

Ulrik Twin Log Cabins

Our customer ordered two Ulrik Log Cabins to solve a storage, workshop and office problem he had and has been kind enough to share his story of the build with me. Mr J has some very good tips in terms of the base he used and construction and it’s well worth a read, especially if you are using a timber frame base.


These are the finished Ulrik Twin Log Cabins on a timber frame base with decking.

Ulrik 45mm log cabin, also available with double glazing

Ulrik 45mm log cabin, also available with double glazing

As well as a lot of other cracking ideas Mr J had an interesting use for our foundation beams, he wrote:

Firstly, I just wanted to say how delighted we are with our pair of Ulrik cabins. Your comprehensive website made the build process an absolute breeze, so I averaged 1.5 days for each including insulation – but not including treatment (almost at the end of 4 coats a piece using Sikkens).

Speaking of which, I thought I’d share a little ‘tip’ I discovered during the build.

I insulated both floor and roof (100mm and 50mm celotex respectively). I’d had a look at your website to see how you trimmed the eaves to cover the 50mm celotex, noting you said that additional wood may be required. Whilst I’d ordered the tantalised, profiled foundation beams with the cabin, as my build was already on a wooden frame they were effectively surplus to requirements. However, as luck would have it they are also very conveniently profiled so that mounting them to the eave edge with the lower ‘lip’ under the roof boards leaves almost exactly 50mm of upstand for the celotex! I just pilot drilled through to hit the roof board ends in the centres and fixed with 60mm screws.

Not only does the end result look perfectly neat, it resists the weather being tantalised! The fact that the lower lip acts as a drip edge is just a bonus. I just need to add the guttering.

Anyway, have attached a couple of pics of the trimming and the ‘twins’ now that they are complete. Who knows, it may result in some additional orders for the foundation profiles! Feel free to pass on with the website if you think it’s useful? I showed my neighbour (who also ordered a Tuin cabin on my recommendation) and he adopted the same approach – well, I helped him build his too after all.

Interesting use of our foundation beams when insulating the roof

Interesting use of our foundation beams when insulating the roof

Below is Mr J’s story, pictures, tips and advice which may also help you in your build, there are a lot of tips and very relevant if you are intending to use a timber frame base for your Log Cabin as well as some good hints on the actual install.

First job was to level the site. The garden has quite a fall on it, so the end was lowered and flattened to level. This also kept the ridge height below 2.5m

First job was to level the site. The garden has quite a fall on it, so the end was lowered and flattened to level. This also kept the ridge height below 2.5m

A 600mm-700mm trench was dug from the house to take 2 x 6mm SWA cables for electrical supply. The blue conduit contains 3 x CAT6 cables for internet etc.

A 600mm-700mm trench was dug from the house to take 2 x 6mm SWA cables for electrical supply. The blue conduit contains 3 x CAT6 cables for internet etc.

The blue conduit contains cat5 to the log cabins

The blue conduit contains cat5 to the log cabins

The trench was partially backfilled, then hazard tape laid to give warning for any future digging.

The trench was partially backfilled, then hazard tape laid to give warning for any future digging.

This was the supply to one of the old sheds. Plastic conduit just under the turf with twin and earth. Definitely NOT recommended!!!

This was the supply to one of the old sheds. Plastic conduit just under the turf with twin and earth. Definitely NOT recommended!!!

Site was marked out for the foundation frames and holes dug for the supporting posts.

Site was marked out for the foundation frames and holes dug for the supporting posts.

To support the wooden frame, holes were dug to take 4” tanalised posts set in postcrete. Whilst only 50mm-100mm is visible, each is about 600mm long

To support the wooden frame, holes were dug to take 4” tanalised posts set in postcrete. Whilst only 50mm-100mm is visible, each is about 600mm long

As a ‘belt-and-braces’ precaution, the posts were also coated in Creoseal. The bore holes in the top ensure that the Creoseal got to the heart of the post to stop rot. Whilst it’s the earth/moisture and organic matter that rots the posts, the holes were backfilled mostly with stones to deter this. A strong weed membrane was laid, large enough to create a French drain around the perimeter. Although, a soakway was also dug to take rainwater was the cabins will be guttered.

As a ‘belt-and-braces’ precaution, the posts were also coated in Creoseal. The bore holes in the top ensure that the Creoseal got to the heart of the post to stop rot. Whilst it’s the earth/moisture and organic matter that rots the posts, the holes were backfilled mostly with stones to deter this. A strong weed membrane was laid, large enough to create a French drain around the perimeter. Although, a soakway was also dug to take rainwater away and the log cabins will be guttered.

The frame extends also to create a front decking area. The cabin foundation ‘ring’ was doubled up with 150mm x 50mm timbers. This also means that the floor has something to sit on as the second timber sits inside the foundation perimeter.

The frame extends also to create a front decking area. The cabin foundation ‘ring’ was doubled up with 150mm x 50mm timbers. This also means that the floor has something to sit on as the second timber sits inside the foundation perimeter.

Care was taken at every stage to ensure the frame was absolutely level. Whilst a fall is required for the decking, this would be added later with spacers under the decking itself.

Care was taken at every stage to ensure the frame was absolutely level. Whilst a fall is required for the decking, this would be added later with spacers under the decking itself.

Perimeter beams all in. Now to fit the rest of the joists. Note soakaway to front. Rainwater will be collected via gutters to a water butt at the rear with overflow into the soakaway.

Perimeter beams all in. Now to fit the rest of the joists. Note soakaway to front. Rainwater will be collected via gutters to a water butt at the rear with overflow into the soakaway.

Joists installed with hangars. You could build a house on this frame, let alone a cabin!

Joists installed with hangars. You could build a house on this frame, let alone a Log Cabin!

Framework done, 100mm of Celotex was installed. As you can see from the middle ‘holes’, batten was used to the lower sides of the joists to support it. I have some concerns about rodents getting into it, so you could ply out the bottom first. But we have a cat ☺

Framework done, 100mm of Celotex was installed. As you can see from the middle ‘holes’, batten was used to the lower sides of the joists to support it. I have some concerns about rodents getting into it, so you could ply out the bottom first. But we have a cat ☺

Foundation framework all done – so just need some cabins to put on them.

Foundation framework all done – so just need some cabins to put on them.

Unfortunately for us, the site location is about 50m away from the drive where the cabin will be offloaded. Beams laid (level) to keep the cabin off the ground in case of rain.

Unfortunately for us, the site location is about 50m away from the drive where the cabin will be offloaded. Beams laid (level) to keep the cabin off the ground in case of rain.

Timely delivery of the cabin and the moffet lift.

Timely delivery of the cabin and the moffet fork lift.

Whilst we ordered two cabins, they came at staggered timings allowing us to erect each independently.

Whilst we ordered two log cabins, they came at staggered timings allowing us to erect each independently.

log-cabin-delivery-2

Easy does it!

Easy does it!

log-cabin-delivery-4

The shingles were removed and stored in case by some miracle we got some hot weather whilst the log cabin was built.

The shingles were removed and stored in case by some miracle we got some hot weather whilst the log cabin was built.

The packaging of the cabin is cleverly done, with very little wasted space. The plans are inside the package – but have a good pre-read of Tuin’s website to get a feel for the process

The packaging of the cabin is cleverly done, with very little wasted space. The plans are inside the package – but have a good pre-read of Tuin’s website to get a feel for the process

(For installation advice, videos and walkthroughs please see the Log Cabin Installation Advice page)

The packers at Tuin must love ‘Tetris’ ;)

The packers at Tuin must love ‘Tetris’ 😉

This was the second cabin I’d built (the other is exactly the same and sits to the right of this shot), so I knew the process. But to give you an idea of time – the foundation beams were laid at 18:05. I pre-treated the undersides of them with Sikkens Cetol and they also sit on a DPC. Checked for square, a screw was put in each corner to stop it moving about.

This was the second cabin I’d built (the other is exactly the same and sits to the right of this shot), so I knew the process. But to give you an idea of time – the foundation beams were laid at 18:05. I pre-treated the undersides of them with Sikkens Cetol and they also sit on a DPC. Checked for square, a screw was put in each corner to stop it moving about.

Now the walls start to be built.

Now the walls start to be built.

Refer to the plans to ensure you don’t build too high for the windows. It’s easily done as the walls go together so quickly! There’s quite a lean on the right side in this shot, but that will be corrected later when the gable goes on.

Refer to the plans to ensure you don’t build too high for the windows. It’s easily done as the walls go together so quickly! There’s quite a lean on the right side in this shot, but that will be corrected later when the gable goes on.

Door and window frames installed. Remember, do NOT fix these to the walls. They should float which allows the wood to move as it expands/contracts with varying moisture levels

Door and window frames installed. Remember, do NOT fix these to the walls. They should float which allows the wood to move as it expands/contracts with varying moisture levels

Now the gable and purlins are on, things are a bit more plumb – but not quite right yet.

Now the gable and purlins are on, things are a bit more plumb – but not quite right yet.

I didn’t have this issue with the first cabin, but that’s the nature of wood. The top wall planks on the right had a bit of twist in them which was pulling the wall out. A bit of ratchet strap engineering was employed and the cabin left overnight to settle. To get from foundation beam to this took just 2.5 hours – time stamp on pic shows 20:37

I didn’t have this issue with the first cabin, but that’s the nature of wood. The top wall planks on the right had a bit of twist in them which was pulling the wall out. A bit of ratchet strap engineering was employed and the cabin left overnight to settle. To get from foundation beam to this took just 2.5 hours – time stamp on pic shows 20:37

(Mr J gives a good solution here to a rare problem. If you come across this and the build time is critical you can also brace one side with a spare log or pallet parts to bring the structure square, when the roof boards are nailed on to the top logs and purlins the twist will always come out)

With the sun out on the following morning, it was time to roof the cabin.

With the sun out on the following morning, it was time to roof the cabin.

On a cabin of this size (3.8m x 3.8m) it takes about 90 minutes to board out the roof with two of you working on it.

On a cabin of this size (3.8m x 3.8m) it takes about 90 minutes to board out the roof with two of you working on it.

Lovely ☺

Lovely ☺

Top tip. Whilst I’d ordered tanalised, profiled foundation beams, I didn’t need them as I have a wood frame foundation. However, they are perfect to create an upstand on the roof edge for 50mm Celotex insulation! Being tanalised they’re perfect for the job ☺

Top tip. Whilst I’d ordered tanalised, profiled foundation beams, I didn’t need them as I have a wood frame foundation. However, they are perfect to create an upstand on the roof edge for 50mm Celotex insulation! Being tanalised they’re perfect for the job ☺

As you see, the profiled beams are perfect to trim the insulated roof boards. Note the double shingle layer on the right roof. The lower shingle is installed upside down (gravel side facing ground). I have over sailed to allow for guttering.

As you see, the profiled beams are perfect to trim the insulated roof boards. Note the double shingle layer on the right roof. The lower shingle is installed upside down (gravel side facing ground). I have over sailed to allow for guttering.

50mm Celotex fixed to roof with 60mm screws and washers (to stop screws from pulling through the Celotex). Boards foil taped together.

50mm Celotex fixed to roof with 60mm screws and washers (to stop screws from pulling through the Celotex). Boards foil taped together.

Before and after shingle-wise

Before and after shingle-wise

Shingles take time to do, but are very simple. Good instructions on the Tuin website. Note neighbours foundation frame – they have a Tuin Log Cabin arriving shortly too!

Shingles take time to do, but are very simple. Good instructions on the Tuin website. Note neighbours foundation frame – they have a Tuin Log Cabin arriving shortly too!

(For installation advice and videos showing the shingles please see: IKO Shingles. Please note when using roof insulation you will need to use longer clout nails sourced locally, for more advice on insulating your log cabin please see: Insulating a log cabin roof and floor)

Ridge done accounting for the usual wind direction.

Ridge done accounting for the usual wind direction.

The Ulrik ‘twins’ log cabins. The wood is protected with 2 undercoats of Sikkens Cetol HLS plus and finished with a further 2 of Sikkens Filter 7 Plus in light oak.

The Ulrik ‘twins’ log cabins. The wood is protected with 2 undercoats of Sikkens Cetol HLS plus and finished with a further 2 of Sikkens Filter 7 Plus in light oak.

Flooring installed using 22mm P5 T&G floor boards. Edges glued and screwed.

Flooring installed using 22mm P5 T&G floor boards. Edges glued and screwed.

Whilst one of the cabins is purely a workshop, the other is a day/play room. As such, it gets an oak engineered wood floor. The base membrane is breathable to prevent warping due to different moisture levels between the P5 and the flooring.

Whilst one of the log cabins is purely a workshop, the other is a day/play room. As such, it gets an oak engineered wood floor. The base membrane is breathable to prevent warping due to different moisture levels between the P5 and the flooring.

log-cabin-floor-2

log-cabin-floor-3

Cabins finished, time to deck the front. 144mm x 32mm Redwood planks in this case.

Cabins finished, time to deck the front. 144mm x 32mm Redwood planks in this case.

Decking finished, the only jobs remaining are to fill the French drains with slate, guttering and install the electrics.

Decking finished, the only jobs remaining are to fill the French drains with slate, guttering and install the electrics.

I would like to thank Mr J for sending me this post and pictures, there is some great information here and I know it will help other customers with their project.

If anyone would like to send in pictures and a story we always offer further discounts on products, presents and in some cases a cheque.

For all Customer pictorial reviews please see this page: Tuin Customer Blog Reviews

UPDATE: Mr J sent in further pictures of his building and an ingenious use of left over parts: Ulrik log cabin pt 2.