Log Cabin Floor as an Option

You will no doubt have noticed our log cabins have a floor as an ‘option’ and, perhaps like some customers comments in the past, you’ll be aghast at this. Surely it must come with something?  How can you not have a floor?

Let me explain why we offer a wooden floor as an option:

Garden Sheds

The thing is that us lot in the UK have an idea in our heads, I think it comes from generations of the common garden shed we all love.  We’ve all had a shed, visited sheds, sat in them, worked in them, thrown junk in them, they’ve all got floors, you’ve got to have a floor! How can you not?

With a shed we pop down the bearers, then a floor and then we build the shed on top of it. A log cabin is not built this way.

With a shed we pop down the bearers, then a floor and then we build the shed on top of it. A log cabin is not built this way.

But, you’ve got to think slightly different, different in how a log cabin is built and what’s it’s purpose is.

In Europe, (meaning over the channel) which is the main market for these, they spend money on their bases, a lot more than us.  They have lovely decorative patios, decorative slabs and bricks they may invest in timber or composite decking, garden decking tiles, mosaic patterns, they invest heavily in their gardens much like us.

Log Cabin Construction

First of all you need to understand how a log cabin is built and simply put it’s all about the perimeter.

The cabin is built, generally on a foundation beam that sits on the base between it and the first log running around the perimeter of the building we supply them with all our log cabins in a basic form.  In Europe they’re happy with that, they’ve got their floor, the base they’ve already paid a lot of money for it, the base they’ve spent a lot on IS the floor.

Log cabins are not like sheds, they don’t have a floor which it sits on, and the floor doesn’t sit on bearers like a shed, a log cabin is different, or at least ours are.

Ours sit on a foundation beam which runs around the perimeter of the cabin, the cabin sits on that (when using a concrete or paving slab base)

A foundation beam runs around the perimeter of the log cabin

A foundation beam runs around the perimeter of the log cabin, please notice the pressure treated timber between the base and the first log.

More on log cabin construction can be found in the various menu’s in this blog and also from the log cabin category pages.  But with all floors, no matter what you choose they always go in after the cabin is built and are known as a floating floor, they are independent to the log cabin itself.

Log Cabin Flooring

So, after your log cabin is built, you open the door and walk in.  You’re now standing on your floor, the base it’s sat on.  The whole area is clear and you are looking down at your base.

Now it’s from this point you can make some decisions on what you would like to do.

Generally us lot in the UK like our cheap bases, simple concrete or paving slabs will do and this is where a bit of the problem comes in, we don’t want to see it and who would want to see a load of concrete?

Europe are different, they spend just that little bit more as I’ve already mentioned, they want to see the base they’ve spent money on.  Us in the UK we want to cover it up and rightly so, our bases look horrible!

So lets make a decision, we’ve got to cover the base with something.

Now, what do you want to finally do with the cabin?  Is it an office, extra accommodation, a gym, a studio or just there as a garden leisure building?  More importantly what are you going to do with the floor eventually?  Have you any plans for a carpet?  Laminate flooring? Underfloor heating?  Vinyl? Or, would you like a traditional pine tongue and groove floor?

Tongue and Groove Spruce Floor

If you want the lovely traditional style of a wood floor in Spruce then, feel free to select from the drop down and choose our optional floor.  It comes in Spruce tongue and groove of 18mm or 27mm thick board.  Each pack comes complete with skirting board and floor joists which are pressure treated and is Spruce rather than Pine which can make a huge difference.

Click here for more details, including sizing of our Wooden Floor Packs 18mm and 27mm

Tongue and groove log cabin floor in 18mm or 27mm thick boards

Tongue and groove log cabin Spruce floor in 18mm or 27mm thick boards which we can supply as an option.

If it’s a Spruce floor you’d like then we can help you, it’s unlikely you’ll find it cheaper from a local timber merchant so please add it to your order as an option.

Please note though these are standard floor boards and if you require a high quality finish equal to laminate you will need to sand down further and varnish them. Please also expect that there maybe cracks shakes etc within the floorboards.

Final Floor Covering

You’re considering a carpet?  Perhaps laminate?  Maybe underfloor heating?  A vinyl covering of some sorts so you can keep it clean?  If that’s the case you really don’t need our lovely Spruce floor, you would be wasting your money and really don’t need it.

Instead consider your other options such as plywood, loft boards, thick OSB all available from your local DIY store or builders merchant and probably considerably cheaper than a pine floor from us, especially if they have an offer on which most do if asked.  You can use several different types of board, it’s going to be covered up any way, does it matter what you use as long as it is strong enough and the joists are set at about 600mm.

We’ve recently acquired some Plywood for Log Cabins– Costs are for delivery with a log cabin, to make it easier for everyone. Feel free to email us if you wish to add Plywood to your order.

Carpeted log cabin floor. If you're going to do this do you really need a pine floor from us?

Carpeted log cabin floor. If you’re going to do this do you really need a Spruce floor from us?

Insulated log cabin floor ready for boards and the final floor covering.

Insulated log cabin floor ready for boards and the final floor covering.  Do you need a Spruce tongue and groove floor if you’re going to cover it?

Laminate flooring in a log cabin does not need our pine tongue and groove floor, simple board is fine.

Laminate flooring in a log cabin does not need our Spruce tongue and groove floor, simple board is fine, save some money and put any old board down if you’re going to cover it.

Floor Option or Not?

That’s why we give you the option, do you really want us to add in the cost of a floor to your log cabin when you may not even need it?  You may have a lovely base, or spent money on expensive decking boards or perhaps have some stunning brick weave you want to enjoy.

You maybe adding a carpet or another covering and any old board will do to put the final surface on.  Do you really need to spend more?  But, if you have concrete or slabs and you’d like a traditional Spruce floor then please select ‘floor required’ from the drop down menu on all the log cabin pages and we’ll send you a lovely tongue and grooved 18mm / 27mm Log cabin floor

Interested in having laminate flooring in your Log Cabin? We now supply Log Cabin Laminate Flooring. Available in eight styles, FREE delivery with your Log Cabin order.

This entry was posted in Log Cabin Fitting Tips, Technical - Log Cabins and Timber and tagged , , , , , by Richard. Bookmark the permalink.

About Richard

This blog is my personal platform which I do enjoy. It is my own viewpoint and my own ideas. I may not be right and other installers / experts may offer a different view point or a alternative way to do something. I welcome contributions from anybody experienced to do so.

All my blog writing is MY OWN personal opinion ONLY and is NOT always the opinion of TUIN | TUINDECO as a company.

Log Cabins and Garden timber have a myriad of intricacies , I love to give away the secrets, there are a lot!

I enjoy using this blog to expose them so you know what you are buying. I love to know I am causing a few problems in the industry as it can be on occasions less than honest.

I actively encourage everyone to install their own buildings. So many times I would fit and the company I was working for would charge loads for my time, only then to be faced with the embarrassment when the customer says 'I could have done that' and YES you can without paying hundreds of Pounds!

I have over 19 years experience within the garden timber industry. I have particular expertise in garden buildings including the manufacture, design and installation from sheds to log cabins and all the way up to timber framed houses.

In my time I have been involved with virtually every manufacturer and supplier of garden buildings. I have also installed pretty much every make of Garden Building there is from ALL suppliers and manufacturers.

Prior to my career change I was a Watch Commander in the Fire Service with particular expertise in chemical incidents, training, technical design / technology / IT /Procedures / ISO Systems and road traffic accidents. I retired due to a nasty injury after 20 years service.

During my time in the Fire Service, on my days off, I was a self employed fitter for any type of garden building, I worked with most of the well known companies as a subcontractor.

I now work with Tuin | Tuindeco in the UK, supporting and advising on the vast range of products. I keep an eye out for help requests when we a supposed to be closed and can usually get back to you out of hours via email only (wife and children permitting on my days off).

In my private life I consult as an independent expert assessor for companies or private individuals when a dispute is present over their structure which results in producing an impartial report and assessment for whoever requires it. This is often higher valued than a structural engineers report born from my credentials, experience and widely recognised as an 'Expert' in the field.

I am a freelance writer for numerous companies, publications and blogs as well as an independent expert and fault finder for parts of the Industry and consumers with a particular emphasis on timber structures, both framed and of an interlocking design such as log cabins.

I produce numerous articles about timber in general, information on general timber products and specific guides when needed. I hope you enjoy and find my writing useful.

Please contribute and comment to my posts as you would like and I will try to respond as best I can.

Thank you


25 thoughts on “Log Cabin Floor as an Option

  1. Hi Richard, I’ve ordered a Nieder Cabin with 26mm flooring. Would you recommend using secret nailing or would this leave the floor boards prone to warping?

  2. Hi, I’m considering a Philip cabin. I am also considering the composite foundation beam sitting on a concrete slab base. If I’m not ordering the tongue and groove spruce flooring (I intend to lay laminate flooring), do you get joists with the cabin? Do the joists sit directly on the base? Are they fixed to the frame/composite foundation beam? Thanks, David

    • if the floor pack is not ordered then joists are not supplied. Any timber will suffice as bearers / joists if required. The joists with on the base, it’s helpful to secure them to the perimeter for installation purposes as it stops them moving while laying the floor.

  3. Hi – I’m going to have a wooden, elevated base. I plan to to insulate, DPM and cover with OSB before laying vinyl laminate on top. I will be laying the floor in the summer so will leave a 10mm gap around the outer edge for both the OSB and the laminate.

    What type of wood do you recommend for the skirting board?
    Should the skirting board be connected to the wall or the floor?
    If the wall, do i need to consider expansion / contraction?

    • Any wood is fine for the skirting, pine will be the cheapest. The skirting is attached to the bottom wall log to allow the floor to expand and contract underneath, this is the same as in your house.

  4. Hi
    We’ve built a wooden frame , ready for installation of Peggie log cabin. Query on the floor, I’ve ordered a 27mm floor pack to come with the cabin , which I understand will be the last thing to be fitted, would we fit the floorboards to the existing timber frame joists and not use the joists that come in your floor pack?
    Is this how the floors are normally fitted on wooden frames?
    Many thanks …..

    • If you can it would work well to use your timber frame joists, you may find you need to add in one or two extra to take into account where the boards will join.

  5. Hi !

    Just getting ready to fit the 18mm spruce floor packs in my Emma log cabin. Just been looking at the pictures of others peoples flooring work. Would you recommend staggering the cuts in the tongue and groove flooring ? I can see a lot of people have cut their boards to the same length so the joins are not staggered.

  6. Hi
    Some great info here , I’m planning on building a timber frame for a Lulea log cabin , the frame will be on uneven concrete so will require adjustable feet , how many would you recommend and what size timber would you suggest
    Thanks in advance

  7. I have recently purchased a Justine log cabin, that will due to the slope of the garden be supported in places by paving slabs, therefore off the ground. You mention about a DPM, if this was advised where / how would you fit it? and how would insulation boards under the wood floor be installed?

  8. I am downsizing soon to a new bungalow with no garage or workshop, so I plan to fit a Karen, 5m x 3.2m.

    I will insulate the floor with 50mm Celuform, and fit 18mm t&G chipboard from Wickes, which comes 2440mm x 1220mm.

    After reading the above advice, I am considering using no floor joists! Loadings will be low, and well spread by the large sheets. What do you think?

    • You will not need a full set of joists in the normal sense but you will need a fixing point to join the chipboard boards together. You will also need to secure these are the perimeter of the floor.

  9. If we add the 27mm floor as an extra for the Elburg Modern log cabin, is it for both the cabin area and the gazebo area? We’d like the extra floor in the cabin but would like to tile the outside gazebo area ourselves – is this possible?
    Many thanks

    • Hi Jen,

      The 27mm floor extra is for the cabin area only – So you would be able to use different flooring for the gazebo area.

      Hope this helps!
      – Meg

  10. Do you have to make an allowance when putting in floor joists
    to allow for expansion etc, And would you need to leave a gap when using sheets of ply for the floor?

    • You do not need to make any allowance for expansion or contraction with the floor joists, these can be fixed or butted up to foundation beams if you are using them. It is a good idea though to leave and expansion / contraction gap all the way around the floor regardless of whether you are using ply, osb or floor boards. At the height of the winter leave about 5mm, height of summer about 10mm. This gap can be covered by a skirting strip.

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