Wooden Floor Pack for Log Cabins 18mm 2.15m ²

Tongue and groove flooring for log cabins

Our wooden log cabin floor pack provides the perfect finish for any log cabin. Our 18mm floorboards are perfect for smaller cabins or lighter use with a tongue and groove connection that makes installation simple and ensuring a smooth, stable surface that enhances the overall look and finish of your log cabin interior. Whether you’re building a relaxing summerhouse, productive garden office or cosy guest cabin, this flooring offers the perfect solution.

Our flooring is also available in 26mm thickness to provide enhanced strength for heavier use.

Each flooring pack is manufactured with the same care and quality as our log cabins to ensure durability, easy installation and a premium finish. The natural colour of spruce adds both texture and warmth to the interior of your garden building and its strength guarantees that your log cabin will last for years to come.

If you’re ordering one of our log cabins, please select a flooring option directly on the product page to ensure that your flooring is included in the overall price of your log cabin.

Sizes available

18mm Log Cabin Floor Pack (2.15 m²)

• 10 untreated floorboards measuring 18 x 88 x 2470mm

• 3 treated floor joists measuring 45 x 45 x 2000mm

• 2 untreated skirting boards 12 x 45 x 2000mm

26mm Log Cabin Floor Pack (1.62m²)

• Covers 1.62m²

• 5 untreated floor boards measuring 26 x 145 x 2470mm

• 3 treated floor joists measuring 45 x 45 x 2000mm

• 2 untreated skirting boards measuring 12 x 45 x 2000mm

Essential Installation Instructions

Before You Start

• Ensure your base is flat, level and capable of supporting the building.

• A damp proof membrane (DPM) should be installed either beneath the base or beneath the floor structure.

• Floor joists should be spaced evenly and no more than 350-400mm apart.

• If your base is uneven, level the joists using suitable packers before fitting the floor.

Step 1 - Leave an Expansion Gap

Lay the floor as a floating floor and leave a 5-10mm gap around the entire perimeter of the building.

This gap allows the timber floor to naturally expand and contract throughout the year.

Use a spacer to keep the gap consistent around all edges.

Step 2 - Fit the Floorboards

• Start laying the boards from one side of the building.

• Push each board firmly into the previous board.

• Use a wooden block and hammer to gently tap the boards together.

• Ensure there are no gaps between individual floorboards.

The floorboards themselves should be fitted tightly together. The expansion gap is only required around the outside edge of the floor.

Step 3 - Fix the Floorboards

Where each floorboard crosses a floor joist:

• Use two nails.

• Position the nails close to the tongue and groove joint.

• Continue fixing each board as you progress.

Using two nails helps prevent movement and reduces the risk of boards lifting or curling over time.

Step 4 - Fit the Final Boards

Leave the last few boards loose until the final board has been cut to size.

Once the final board is fitted:

• Pull the remaining boards tightly together.

• Fix them to the joists.

• Ensure the perimeter expansion gap remains in place.

Step 5 - Fit the Skirting

The supplied skirting is designed to cover the expansion gap around the edge of the floor.

• Fix the skirting to the cabin wall.

• Do not fix the skirting to the floor.

• This allows the floor to move naturally beneath the skirting.

Step 6 - Protect the Floor

Treat the floor as soon as possible after installation using a suitable floor treatment, oil or varnish.

This helps protect the timber and maintain its appearance.

Additional Information

Floor Direction

Floorboards can be laid in either direction.

Many customers prefer the boards running away from the doorway for appearance, but this is entirely personal preference.

Insulation

Rigid insulation boards can be installed between the floor joists.

We recommend 30-50mm insulation where required.

Heavy Loads

For workshops, machinery or particularly heavy items, consider:

• Adding additional floor joists.

• Reducing joist spacing.

• Using thicker flooring where available.

The floor's strength comes from the base and supporting joists beneath it.

Alternative Bases

The supplied floor joists are designed for use on a flat and level concrete or paving base.

If using a timber frame base or pier foundation system, additional support joists may be required.

Professional Tips & Best Practice

Keeping Boards Tight

A flooring pull bar can be useful when fitting the final boards and helps achieve tighter joints.

Secret Nailing

For a cleaner appearance, floorboards can be "secret nailed".

This means the nail is driven through the tongue of the board at an angle so it is hidden when the next board is fitted.

Please note that the nails supplied are intended for face fixing and are not suitable for secret nailing.

Marking Joist Positions

Before laying the floor, lightly mark the wall where each floor joist is positioned.

Once several boards have been laid, use a chalk line between the marks to ensure all fixings remain perfectly straight.

Finishing Around Doors

The final board may require trimming around the door frame.

In some cases, trimming the bottom of the door architrave can provide a neater finish.

Moisture-Prone Buildings

For buildings exposed to higher moisture levels, such as hot tub cabins:

• Treat both sides of the floorboards before installation.

• Ensure a suitable damp proof membrane is present.

• Double-nailing each board is particularly important.

Treating the Underside

Where there is any concern regarding moisture beneath the building, treating the underside of the floorboards before installation provides additional protection.

Working as a Team

Flooring installation is often easier with two people:

• One person positions and tightens the boards.

• The second person fixes them into place.

• This helps maintain tight joints and speeds up installation.

Creating a Professional Finish

Mitred 45° skirting corners usually provide the neatest appearance.

Most mitre saws and hand mitre boxes can be set to 45° for this purpose.

Using Offcuts

Timber offcuts can often be used for:

• Packing and levelling joists.

• Raising door frames where required.

• Additional trimming around the building.

This helps minimise waste and can solve many small installation challenges.