More on Log Cabin Insulation

I was sitting here this evening enjoying a glass of wine as unfortunately I am in the habit of doing. I was having a wander around the internet just to see what other competitors are up to at the moment.

I then saw a statement that said ‘Very few other companies even offer floor insulation with Log Cabins’. It made me choke on the current mouthful of wine I was enjoying. In fact that mouthful pretty much covered my keyboard with all the spluttering.

I had to re-read exactly what I had seen to be sure. Yup! It did actually say  ‘Very few other companies even offer floor insulation with Log Cabins’. I then had to write this as a bit of a rant as I was flabbergasted this statement was being used to sell a log cabin.

Rip Off

Please let me explain and for you to watch out what you are buying.  I have been involved in numerous companies within the garden and log cabin industry. One of the top things they all did was buy the insulation from a builders merchant or similar supplier. They would then add 30 – 50% and sell it to the customer as an ‘insulation pack’. In a previous life of mine we would order the product from Travis Perkins and have them deliver it on the same day as the cabin and make 30% on it. Companies try all sorts of packs and give all sorts of recommendations and up-sell. In my mind it is all very dishonest to the customer.


Since I joined Tuin and Tuindeco that was one thing I stamped out. I felt all we should be interested in is selling our primary product, it did not sit easy with me at all that we are basically ripping people off so when I joined I quickly put a stop to ‘insulation packs’ with our buildings.


My advice, whether you buy from us or not, is DO NOT buy any insulation packs with a log cabin.  You will find everything you need at a builders merchant or on-line from people who specialise in insulation, they are in a far better position to advise you on the most suitable product, there are loads of different products available. I had a customer recently who found insulation boards that were 20mm thick but the same U value as 100mm standard insulation board!

The only thing you will need to do, to fit insulation is some extra timber for barge-boards and covering, ask me please if you need this.

I really don’t mind who you buy from, (slightly miffed if it’s not us of course) but I will offer advise to anyone who needs it on how to insulate their log cabin very cheaply, Of course also without falling for the ‘log cabin insulation pack’ trick. Including how to insulate the inside of the walls and line them so you don’t have to fall for the double skin log cabin trick, which is a subject for another post, and PLEASE don’t get me started on the double glazing in everything trick!

Here’s a post I wrote about insulating a log cabin a while ago which may be interesting to you:


Ah but you might like the easy life? Of course Sir,you would like an insulation pack?  Yes Sir we can of course provide that …. it’s really great, U value Blah, it has Poly blah, blah, it’s really good honest Sir and very good value

All I’ll do is give the local building supplies a call or maybe on-line and order it for direct delivery on the same day as I deliver you the log cabin…. But hey I can make some money from you … card details please.  Do you really want that? …. Nor do I, I believe in honesty and ‘log cabin Insulation packs’ are the biggest rip off in the trade at the moment ….. oh and twin skins …. oh and double glazing in everything … I said NOT to get me started!!


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About Richard

This blog is my personal platform which I do enjoy. It is my own viewpoint and my own ideas. I may not be right and other installers / experts may offer a different view point or a alternative way to do something. I welcome contributions from anybody experienced to do so.

All my blog writing is MY OWN personal opinion ONLY and is NOT always the opinion of TUIN | TUINDECO as a company.

Log Cabins and Garden timber have a myriad of intricacies , I love to give away the secrets, there are a lot!

I enjoy using this blog to expose them so you know what you are buying. I love to know I am causing a few problems in the industry as it can be on occasions less than honest.

I actively encourage everyone to install their own buildings. So many times I would fit and the company I was working for would charge loads for my time, only then to be faced with the embarrassment when the customer says 'I could have done that' and YES you can without paying hundreds of Pounds!

I have over 19 years experience within the garden timber industry. I have particular expertise in garden buildings including the manufacture, design and installation from sheds to log cabins and all the way up to timber framed houses.

In my time I have been involved with virtually every manufacturer and supplier of garden buildings. I have also installed pretty much every make of Garden Building there is from ALL suppliers and manufacturers.

Prior to my career change I was a Watch Commander in the Fire Service with particular expertise in chemical incidents, training, technical design / technology / IT /Procedures / ISO Systems and road traffic accidents. I retired due to a nasty injury after 20 years service.

During my time in the Fire Service, on my days off, I was a self employed fitter for any type of garden building, I worked with most of the well known companies as a subcontractor.

I now work with Tuin | Tuindeco in the UK, supporting and advising on the vast range of products. I keep an eye out for help requests when we a supposed to be closed and can usually get back to you out of hours via email only (wife and children permitting on my days off).

In my private life I consult as an independent expert assessor for companies or private individuals when a dispute is present over their structure which results in producing an impartial report and assessment for whoever requires it. This is often higher valued than a structural engineers report born from my credentials, experience and widely recognised as an 'Expert' in the field.

I am a freelance writer for numerous companies, publications and blogs as well as an independent expert and fault finder for parts of the Industry and consumers with a particular emphasis on timber structures, both framed and of an interlocking design such as log cabins.

I produce numerous articles about timber in general, information on general timber products and specific guides when needed. I hope you enjoy and find my writing useful.

Please contribute and comment to my posts as you would like and I will try to respond as best I can.

Thank you


25 thoughts on “More on Log Cabin Insulation

  1. Hi
    We are in the middle of building our log cabin. We bought 70mm insulation boards for the roof and floor. 2 questions. Is this too thick for the roof (it’s a pyramid) as I notice in comments above you have mentioned 50mm max? Second can we just put the shingles directly on top of the foil backed board or should we layer with plywood. Thanks

    • 70mm is normally too much for log cabin unless you are using it on a 70mm and above residential building. You will not be able to put the roof covering directly on top as the nails will not reach the wood below. You will need to create a frame and top with marine ply for the shingles to be fixed to. Bare in mind you are adding a lot of extra weight to the roof this way.

  2. Hi there, I am considering purchasing a cabin to use as a home studio and Ive been reading a lot of the useful installation and insulation advice. I will be insulating both the floor and roof. I am an experienced DIYer .. but I have a question re. the recommended Celotex 50mm insulation board for the roof… and apologies if this sounds daft.. but can you really nail through ashfelt tiles into the Celotex and into the roof boards with out damaging the Celotex?
    Many thanks Adam

    • You will damage the celotex by the nails going through it and also if you kneel directly on it with all your weight. But if you spread the load the only damage done is by the nails themselves which is intentional.

      • Thanks Richard, makes sense. Finally, just one last bit of advice please. How do you finish the ridge with the Celotex ? butt the boards together for a flush finish to lay the shingles over? I suppose once you have laid the two roof shingles (from each side) over the ridge they will be less of a sharp edge for the ridge shingle?

        • You tend to butt them together, then use off cuts that are shaped to fill the gap, then the shingles lay over. For the clever people you will cut each board with a mitre at the correct angle and have the perfect join, I’ve never quite managed that though so I use off cuts.

      • Hi, I’ve got a log cabin installation going on currently, it has a pyramid roof. I want to insulate it. Do we need to put insulation board, then thin ply then the shingles? As I note that we can’t nail the insulation directly under the shingles?

        • Normally we will fix the insulation (no more than 50mm) directly onto the roof boards and then shingles to that making sure the clout nails goes all the way through to the roof. There should not be a need for a thin ply on top of the insulation.

  3. Hello,

    I’ve recently ordered the Annabel cabin and am awaiting its arrival later this month.

    Given that it has a relatively flat roof (I’m not sure of the pitch) could you offer any advice on how to insulate it? I had planned to use an EDPM rubber roof but also considered the easy roofing option. If I placed insulation board above the roof boards would the EDPM or easy roof adhere to the insulation boards and if so could it cause any problems?


  4. Hi, Coming from a a different place here. I have an existing Log cabin which in the past has been primarily summer use as a games room for teenage kids. Now with changing work patterns I foresee it being used year round as my office. So my question is how do I best insulate the floor and roof for those cold winter days, given its a finished build? I assume fitting 50MM(or more?) Insulation boards between the exposed joists and then boarding over for the ceiling. However for the floor I guess I would need to fit new floor joists do the same insulation in fill and then apply a new floor cover on top? Could I also deploy underfloor heating on top of the insulation layer?
    Thoughts/advice appreciated.

    • As it is already built you have two options, the safer option being to take of the roof material, insulate on top of the roof and then replace the roof covering. If this is not an option then as you mention you will have to insulate in between the roof joists and support the insulation. You will though have to make sure you vent the roof very well to avoid problems with condensation sitting on top of the insulation.

      For the floor you will need to take up the floorboards and insulate in between the joists as I have explained previously. If you are intending to put a heated floor down it is best to take up the whole floor including the joists and install the heating as per the manufacturers recommendation and then use a final floor such as ply or osb and then use a laminate floor or carpet.

  5. Hi – I’m not entirely clear how you insulate the roof, is it simply a matter of applying the insulation on top of the roof and the felt / shingles on top of that, or does there need to be another layer between the insulation and felt / shingles?

    I am hoping to order the Daisy log cabin and want to be clear how I can insulate it for almost all-year-round use.

    Many thanks!

  6. Richard,

    I’m currently in the process of checking with my local council to ensure i can place a Lauren cabin in my garden to be used as a year round gym. I plan on using a 3rd party to supply and install ground screws to support a timber frame base to exact dimensions for the cabin. I will be insulating the floor and roof. For the floor, i didn’t have any plans to use a DPM due to being off the ground plus the site has a gradient. I will use the cross members of the timber frame base to support the floor insulation so this should be good. Chicken wire will be stapled to the timber base and dug into the ground to minimise the risk of rabbits and hedgehogs making a home under the building.

    I do have a query on how i can insulate and line the walls so that i can be sure to have year round use. I have read the the blog postings about expansion & contraction and am not sure how to line without creating the risks of the issues detailed in that particular post. As it will be a gym, i will be hanging large mirrors, televisions and an AC unit on the walls..

    Your advice is greatly appreciated.

    Thank you.


  7. Hi, Currently have An Aiste in order. If the cabin is on a timber frame and insulation is left open below. Do we need to worry about critters staying under the cabin, or would you protect it in some way underneath the joists

    • I would offer some protection to the insulation, you could accomplish this by adding chicken wire or similar underneath. You can also consider capping off the timber frame all around which will also look nicer.

  8. Hi Richard,

    We have (well to be honest the good lady) has recently put up a daisy cabin. We sourced the floor and insulated with celotex and joist/OSB. We didn’t however insulate the roof at time of install. With the benefit of hindsight we should have done this. Is it possible/advisable to insulate the inside – granted this will result in cover the beams/roof slats – but are there any obvious do’s / do nots?

    Any advice gratefully received.


    • Ideally a cabin will be insulated on top of the roof, you can though of course insulate it under the roof. There is some advice in this previous article I wrote about expansion and contraction in log cabins.

      The biggest problem you have with insulation inside the building is that of condensation build up, so, like your house you will need to make sure there is a cavity and that this cavity is vented.

  9. Richard,

    I have a Justine cabin on order and this will be mounted on a timber frame as the ground is sloping. I want to insulate the floor and wondered if you had any advice on how to put the insulation into a raised floor without it falling down onto the ground.
    I have some ideas but thought you might have a quick and easy solution.

    Dave Eales

    • This is really up to you, we need to keep the insulation held between the cells made within the timber frame you are making. You can do this is a number of ways; Add batons all the way around to support it, you can also use chicken wire to hold it up. OSB or ply cut to the cell size would also work. It does not really matter as long as it is supported within the cell. I’m sure you have similar ideas. If you find anything interesting how to do it please let me know.

  10. Richard, Presently awaiting delivery next month of a Chloe, have also ordered two Sky Lights with it. I intend to insulate with Celotex 50mm. Do you have any hints on the best way to fit, bearing in mind the increased roof thickness?
    Finally do you have any info you can share on the 20mm thick insulation with a U valve as good as 100mm thick, because that would reduce the roof thickness, and reduce installation problems for the Sky Lights.

    Best regards,

    Allan Seymour.

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