More on Log Cabin Insulation

I was sitting here this evening enjoying a glass of wine as unfortunately I am in the habit of doing. I was having a wander around the internet just to see what other competitors are up to at the moment.

I then saw a statement that said ‘Very few other companies even offer floor insulation with Log Cabins’. It made me choke on the current mouthful of wine I was enjoying. In fact that mouthful pretty much covered my keyboard with all the spluttering.

I had to re-read exactly what I had seen to be sure. Yup! It did actually say  ‘Very few other companies even offer floor insulation with Log Cabins’. I then had to write this as a bit of a rant as I was flabbergasted this statement was being used to sell a log cabin.

Rip Off

Please let me explain and for you to watch out what you are buying.  I have been involved in numerous companies within the garden and log cabin industry. One of the top things they all did was buy the insulation from a builders merchant or similar supplier. They would then add 30 – 50% and sell it to the customer as an ‘insulation pack’. In a previous life of mine we would order the product from Travis Perkins and have them deliver it on the same day as the cabin and make 30% on it. Companies try all sorts of packs and give all sorts of recommendations and up-sell. In my mind it is all very dishonest to the customer.


Since I joined Tuin and Tuindeco that was one thing I stamped out. I felt all we should be interested in is selling our primary product, it did not sit easy with me at all that we are basically ripping people off so when I joined I quickly put a stop to ‘insulation packs’ with our buildings.


My advice, whether you buy from us or not, is DO NOT buy any insulation packs with a log cabin.  You will find everything you need at a builders merchant or on-line from people who specialise in insulation, they are in a far better position to advise you on the most suitable product, there are loads of different products available. I had a customer recently who found insulation boards that were 20mm thick but the same U value as 100mm standard insulation board!

The only thing you will need to do, to fit insulation is some extra timber for barge-boards and covering, ask me please if you need this.

I really don’t mind who you buy from, (slightly miffed if it’s not us of course) but I will offer advise to anyone who needs it on how to insulate their log cabin very cheaply, Of course also without falling for the ‘log cabin insulation pack’ trick. Including how to insulate the inside of the walls and line them so you don’t have to fall for the double skin log cabin trick, which is a subject for another post, and PLEASE don’t get me started on the double glazing in everything trick!

Here’s a post I wrote about insulating a log cabin a while ago which may be interesting to you:


Ah but you might like the easy life? Of course Sir,you would like an insulation pack?  Yes Sir we can of course provide that …. it’s really great, U value Blah, it has Poly blah, blah, it’s really good honest Sir and very good value

All I’ll do is give the local building supplies a call or maybe on-line and order it for direct delivery on the same day as I deliver you the log cabin…. But hey I can make some money from you … card details please.  Do you really want that? …. Nor do I, I believe in honesty and ‘log cabin Insulation packs’ are the biggest rip off in the trade at the moment ….. oh and twin skins …. oh and double glazing in everything … I said NOT to get me started!!


11 thoughts on “More on Log Cabin Insulation

  1. Richard,

    I’m currently in the process of checking with my local council to ensure i can place a Lauren cabin in my garden to be used as a year round gym. I plan on using a 3rd party to supply and install ground screws to support a timber frame base to exact dimensions for the cabin. I will be insulating the floor and roof. For the floor, i didn’t have any plans to use a DPM due to being off the ground plus the site has a gradient. I will use the cross members of the timber frame base to support the floor insulation so this should be good. Chicken wire will be stapled to the timber base and dug into the ground to minimise the risk of rabbits and hedgehogs making a home under the building.

    I do have a query on how i can insulate and line the walls so that i can be sure to have year round use. I have read the the blog postings about expansion & contraction and am not sure how to line without creating the risks of the issues detailed in that particular post. As it will be a gym, i will be hanging large mirrors, televisions and an AC unit on the walls..

    Your advice is greatly appreciated.

    Thank you.


  2. Hi, Currently have An Aiste in order. If the cabin is on a timber frame and insulation is left open below. Do we need to worry about critters staying under the cabin, or would you protect it in some way underneath the joists

    • I would offer some protection to the insulation, you could accomplish this by adding chicken wire or similar underneath. You can also consider capping off the timber frame all around which will also look nicer.

  3. Hi Richard,

    We have (well to be honest the good lady) has recently put up a daisy cabin. We sourced the floor and insulated with celotex and joist/OSB. We didn’t however insulate the roof at time of install. With the benefit of hindsight we should have done this. Is it possible/advisable to insulate the inside – granted this will result in cover the beams/roof slats – but are there any obvious do’s / do nots?

    Any advice gratefully received.


    • Ideally a cabin will be insulated on top of the roof, you can though of course insulate it under the roof. There is some advice in this previous article I wrote about expansion and contraction in log cabins.

      The biggest problem you have with insulation inside the building is that of condensation build up, so, like your house you will need to make sure there is a cavity and that this cavity is vented.

  4. Richard,

    I have a Justine cabin on order and this will be mounted on a timber frame as the ground is sloping. I want to insulate the floor and wondered if you had any advice on how to put the insulation into a raised floor without it falling down onto the ground.
    I have some ideas but thought you might have a quick and easy solution.

    Dave Eales

    • This is really up to you, we need to keep the insulation held between the cells made within the timber frame you are making. You can do this is a number of ways; Add batons all the way around to support it, you can also use chicken wire to hold it up. OSB or ply cut to the cell size would also work. It does not really matter as long as it is supported within the cell. I’m sure you have similar ideas. If you find anything interesting how to do it please let me know.

  5. Richard, Presently awaiting delivery next month of a Chloe, have also ordered two Sky Lights with it. I intend to insulate with Celotex 50mm. Do you have any hints on the best way to fit, bearing in mind the increased roof thickness?
    Finally do you have any info you can share on the 20mm thick insulation with a U valve as good as 100mm thick, because that would reduce the roof thickness, and reduce installation problems for the Sky Lights.

    Best regards,

    Allan Seymour.

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