Adding a Window

Another Window?

Imagine you’ve built your log cabin and you find you need more light, or perhaps you already know you will need another window.

An additional large window has been added to the rear of this standard Rick 40mm Log cabin.

Or maybe you cannot block out that amazing scenery you have from your garden.

an extra window has been added to the rear wall of this Jutka, Gazebo, log cabin combination building.

If you do decide you would like another window Tuin do offer these, they’re a generic window of various sizes and can be fitted to any manufactures log cabin of thicknesses from 28mm up to 70mm:

When to Install an extra window

If you’ve already decided you would like an addtional window to that which comes as standard with your building you will probably order it at the same time as your building. You’ve then got to decide whether you are going to install it at the same time or afterwards, neither really matters, but my  preference is to always install it following the whole install. I like this way because:

  • You can be sure the main building has gone together correctly.
  • You will not void any guarantee.
  • You can be 100% certain of the positioning.
  • You avoid making mistakes in cutting logs.
  • You can be sure you are not going to structurally effect the log cabin.

Of course you can install it as you go but you run higher risks of a mess up, of which I have done in my early days fitting log cabins – namely cutting the logs wrong which does end in tears when there is no spare logs.

Generic Window Parts

There are several ways windows are made for log cabins and invariably they all follow the same pattern; they are a window frame with fascias applied to create a U section that the wall logs will sit in.

Remember it is important that the windows or doors are NOT fixed to the logs in any way to allow for expansion and contraction.

Below is an old Generic window I found in the workshop which I’ll use as a demonstration on how I fit the window.

Various parts that make up the generic window.

These windows are made up three components:

  • Window Frame.
  • Spacer Pieces according the width of wall log.
  • Window facias.

If we look at the spacers / battens you will see there is a paper label showing you the measurements for various log thicknesses.

Spacers which are marked and will be cut down to match the log thickness you have in your building.

Of course if the paper is not there, lost or got wet or even if your log thickness is not shown then you can easily measure this. If you are cutting to your own size it is best to make is 2 – 3mm larger. For instance; a 40mm thick wall log would have a spacer measurement of 42 – 43mm in width.

It might help to layout the parts so you can see exactly what you have.

Parts of the window. You should have two top, four side and two bottom fascias. As well as the spacers or adjustable battens whichever term you prefer.

Fitting the Generic Window

Before you start, trim down the spacers to match the thickness of your log cabin either by using the mark guide or measuring yourself. We are going to fit this window into a 58mm log cabin at our show site.

58mm thick wall log.

Start by marking the spacer for your size of wall log

Cut the spacer down using a handsaw or if you have it use a circular saw or jigsaw.

Once you have your spacers to size you can then fix them to the window frame.

Spacers have been fitted on each of the wides of the window frame.

You will of course need four spacers that go on each side of the window frame. You can fix these however you would like to, some fitters will use nails but personally I like to use screws as I think it gives a better fit, it’s easier to take apart and is generally stronger. The choice of fixing is yours at this point.

I prefer to use screws to fit the spacers but it is up to you at this point.

Cutting a hole in your Log Cabin

This next bit can be a bit tense and I must admit it still makes me a bit nervous in case I mess it up.

Before we start measuring or cutting holes we need to find the best place for our window. There’s a couple of rules to follow:

  • Do not cut any closer than 200mm to the interlocking corner of the cabin.
  • Do not cut any closer than 200mm to the side of another window.
  • Ideally start or finish your cut on a full log.
  • Ideally leave at least two clear logs above the window to maintane integrity of the building.
  • Make your own judgement of the integrity of the building once the hole is cut, if you need advice for a tricky placement please contact the main office or leave a message on this page and we’ll be pleased to help.

You can measure the window and transcribe those measurement onto the walls which is what I think a lot of people do. You would start at the centre point and measure out either side both top and bottom and then mark the lines.

Personally I still don’t trust myself or a tape measure and hold the actual window frame (including attached spacers) to the wall and mark around it with a pencil / pen. That way I can be sure my eyes haven’t gone wonky or the tape measure has stretched or shrunk.

Either mark out where you are going to cut the window by taking measurements from the window frame or hold the actual window to the wall and draw around it.

One marked you need to consider what happens when your log cabin either expands or contract which it will do over the cycle of the seasons. For more details on this please see: Expansion and Contraction in Log Cabins.

As you will know it is necessary to leave an expansion, or, contraction gap above the window to cope with seasonal variations. The gap you make will be decided by the time of year you are installing:

  • Height of Summer: The wood will be at its smallest as a lot of moisture will have escaped. Therefore only a small gap of 10 – 15mm maybe necessary as the building is only likely to expand more as Autumn and Winter arrive.
  • Depths of Winter: The wood will be at its largest size as it will have absorbed a lot of moisture from the surrounding air. Therefore a gap of 20 – 30mm maybe necessary as the building is only likely to contract as the Spring and Summer arrive.

As the logs expand marginally length ways you only really need a gap of around 5 – 10mm either side, again depending on the time of year you are installing.

I prefer to be on the right side of caution and will perhaps make the expansion gap slightly smaller. I will then advise the customer to check behind the fascias as the season changes over the first year to make sure a gap is still present of at least 5mm in the depth of winter. If it is not it is easy to remove the window and take out a little more to allow for the gap.

Making our marks to allow for expansion and contraction of the logs around the window frame.

Once you made your marks, double and triple checked then we can cut the wall logs. A circular saw make sit easy work but you can of course use a hand saw.

Cutting the hole is easier with a circular saw but you can also use a jigsaw or a hand saw.

A complete window hole cut. Do not worry if you are not 100% straight in your cut as any slight deviations will be hidden behind the fascia.

You can offer up the window to check for fitment.

Final Fitting of the Generic Window

You can now fit the fascias on the outside of the window, again, like the spacers you can either screw or nail them onto the frame. I personally think screws are far better but it is up to you.

Fit the fascia to the outside of the window frame onto the spacers.

When you are working with wood it is always highly advisable to pilot hole anything you are going to be screwing or nailing.

Always use a pilot hole when screwing or nailing one piece of wood to another.

Once all four of the outside fascia has been fitted you can then place the window into the hole. In the next picture we have done this from the outside. Notice one single screw used in the centre of the top fascia, this is to loosely secure the window so it can be completed from the inside single handedly. It is of course better if you have someone holding it for you.

Note the screw will be removed once the window is installed.

Complete window fitted from the outside of the log cabin, loosely held in place by one screw at the top to make it easier to fit. The screw is of course later removed.

The fascias are fitted to the inside and the ‘helping screw’ outside is removed and the window is complete.

There we have the completed window!

A Few Window Notes:

Fitting a window is not too hard at all, just consider you expansion and contraction gaps, also the old saying of ‘measure twice cut once’ is very relevant.

Over the first year as the seasons change, periodically check your gap above the window, you can easily remove the top fascia to check behind it.

If security is a concern you can:

  • Countersink your screws and use wood filler mixed with sawdust to hide your screws on the outside fascia.
  • You can use Philips head screws and once installed drill the head so it can no longer be used.
  • Use security screws.

Lukas Log Cabin Feature

On the Lukas Log Cabin product page, we try to give you every detail needed to show you why you would want the Lukas in your garden. With dimensions, technical tips and some customer images.

But sometimes, that doesn’t do the cabin enough justice.. So on this page we let our previous customers voice their opinion on the Lukas log cabin and let them give you their thoughts, ideas or pictures:

Lukas Log Cabin

Made from 34mm logs and comes with an adjoining shed to the side.

The Lukas 34mm log cabin with adjoining shed measuring 4.4m x 3.0m with a 50cm porch area to the front.  The integral shed area measures 1.50m, making this both a stylish and useful cabin. It comes with a double half glazed door, one single half glazed door and one double window. The log thickness and adjacent shed makes the Lucas Log Cabin ideal as a summerhouse.


You dont have to take our word for it, the Lukas has an average customer rating of 5 stars! Here are just a few excerpts from the Lukas Log Cabin Review page:

“The Lukas Log Cabin really is a great product. Really well made and very easy to put together. The delivery was fantastic and on time. All parts were correct and packed well to ensure no damage in transport.” – Mr. Simmons 

“I am 100% satisfied with this product, their service and the cost. My son can now have his own soft play and sensory area with the double doors making it easy to get his wheelchair in and out.” – Mr Higgins 

“The best part of all is looking at our cabin standing proud in our garden…….. OK I jumped the gun, we had to erect it first. With some friends and a lot of fun it was up in two days. Someone has said it is like Lego blocks, yes it is. The roof covering does take a little longer, we got the IKO roof shingles the extra work is well worth the finished look.” – Mr Araujo 

We also have a few more detailed reviews, paired with images to show you the customer’s experience of installing their Log Cabin:


So long as you keep organised, calm and have read the Essential Installation Manual as well as some of the other Log Cabin Fitting Tip pages throughout the blog- your installation of the Lukas Log Cabin should be a simple process.

Here’s an example set of a Lukas Log Cabin installation:

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Due to most customers using their Lukas Log Cabin for a summerhouse, in order to increase the usage of the 34mm logs- Most opted to treat their log cabin with stained/tinted treatments, here are some examples of what you could do after installation:

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There are also a few walkthrough videos of the Lukas Log Cabin for you to get an immersive view:

Customer Pictures: 

If you would like to see more photo’s from customers please click on the picture below – Note: This will take you to our customers photo gallery hosted by Google Photos. Pictures may show older models or customer own modifications.

Lukas log cabin customer gallery

It’s clear as to why the Lukas makes an ideal summerhouse or work/craft room- plus the height of 2.36m makes it ideal for UK gardens!

Lukas Log Cabin

For more details such as measurements and the breakdown of what comes within the self build kit, please look at the Lukas Log Cabin product page.

If you’re looking for something with a thicker log, maybe you’ll benefit from looking at: Aiste Log Cabin Feature or the Stian Log Cabin Feature.

Kaisja Home Gym Cabin

It’s always nice to have customer feedback on our products and service, many customers will send in a review or some pictures, sometimes a video but this lovely personal trainer has given an in depth review on our Kaijsa Studio that she is using as a home gym, it maybe small but Tracey feels it’s big enough for what she needs.

Home gym used by personal trainer Tracy Kiss.

Please see Tracy’s full review and write up here: Creating a Home Gym in the Garden

Tracy has also produced a video of the install which may interest you

Other customer experiences, builds and ideas can be enjoyed here: Pictorial Tuin Reviews

Log Cabin Skylight – Roof Vent

We’ve been looking at this for a while. We get asked a lot of times for windows in the roof or can you fit something like a Velux window in the roof of your Log Cabin.

The answer is yes you can. But to fit a velux requires a lot of modification, a lot of strengthening and a bit of mucking about. They can be fitted but it’s not a fun job.

This is a cracking new product we have added, it seems to tick all the boxes, it’s easy to fit, light enough to not worry about extra strength and provides a good lot of light into your log cabin.

Showing the before and after, it's quite a difference.

Showing the before and after, it’s quite a difference.

You can see there is a huge difference. The skylight is easy to fit on a fresh install but you do need to base it around a felt backing, the surface that the oil based compression gasket seals onto needs to be relatively smooth, standard shed felt or EPDM or Easy roof membrane is ideal. If you have a shingle roof you will need to have an area of felt only.

Using felt shingles but you will need an area of Felt or Easy roof membrane to help it to seal.

Using felt shingles but you will need an area of Felt or Easy roof membrane to help it to seal.

Installation of the skylight / roof vent is very straightforward and you do not even need to be on the roof. Installation as a retrofit is a little trickier and I will be doing this over the next week or so and posting on this on the way I think it is best done.

As well as a normal roof you can also install this on an insulated roof, it may though be necessary to add additional trim around the rim of the unit.

Installed with an insulated roof. Longer bolts may need to be sourced locally and also trim for the inside.

Installed with an insulated roof. Longer bolts may need to be sourced locally and also trim for the inside.

If you are interested in this product please see more details here skylight / roof vent for log cabins

Some interesting pictures of a recent customers install of their roof vents in an insulated roof log cabin:

Jos Corner Log Cabin

Our very kind customer, Mr W initially reviewed our Jos Corner Log Cabin:

An excellent experience – the ordering process, communication and delivery are brilliant. The delivery driver was very accommodating and placed the large package exactly where needed, and I might add with great skill! I’ve only just started sorting out the various bits and pieces whilst waiting for more favourable weather and I am struck very much by the excellent quality of all the components. I can’t wait to get going with the build and I’ll submit a further review and some photos then. Keep up the good work Tuin – very impressed!

Mr W then sent in a follow up review with pictures of his journey with his log cabin, I have copied it below word for word:


An excellent experience – the ordering process, communication and delivery were brilliant. The delivery driver was very accommodating and placed the large package exactly where needed, and I might add with great skill!


I’ve only just started sorting out the various bits and pieces whilst waiting for more favourable weather and I am struck very much by the excellent quality of all the components.


Managed, in between showers, to extend an existing shed base using paving slabs and getting it as level as possible. I think this part  and setting out the foundation beams absolutely square are critical to ensure a trouble-free build.



Foundation beams in place and getting everything square……


Laying the first few logs (easy-peasy)!


Not a bad idea to keep the door frame in line and vertical and build up to this. as due to its weight it could be a bit tricky to drop it in afterwards especially if you are building single-handedly as I was. Also, I levelled the foundation beams using wooden wedges. The small gaps under the foundation beams were later filled with expanded foam.


As the cabin was occupying a corner of the garden and two of the sides would be inaccessible after the build, I decided to paint the rear of these as I installed them……



The structure goes up very quickly.

The roof looks daunting but as the timbers are already cut and chamfered it’s really quite straightforward……it’s at this point you’ll discover how square everything is. If things aren’t quite square the whole structure can be man-handled. The positions of the roof timbers will make obvious any ‘jiggling’ that is needed.


Now the roof boards go on ( I used 3″ decking screws rather than the supplied nails).


At this point I realised that the window frames are easily removed for painting the logs by unscrewing the internal parts of the frame (just 6 screws). This also allowed me to paint the window frames separately in the relative comfort of indoors.


Although not really necessary I decided to staple a waterproof membrane to the roof panels as an underlay for the shingles.



Test fitted the windows and door, I then disassembled them to paint the individual beadings. Meanwhile started the floor. Again, very straight-forward. A nice touch here is to include a plastic membrane under the joists and then some insulation – in this case 50mm Jablite in between the joists.



Ready for the floor boarding now…….


I put a 2mm gap between boards to allow for expansion…


Supplied skirting boards fitted.

Nearly there!


A view of the IKO shingles. I made my own version of the ‘hips’. Also used a 150mm painted steel post cap at the apex of the roof.


Have spent the last couple of weeks building it and I am absolutely delighted with my Jos cabin which is now completed. The only minor hitch I encountered was a couple of warped roof timbers. I contacted Tuin who responded very quickly and replaced them within 2 days without any quibble – impressive! 

 And here is the finished job complete with porch light and home-spun window boxes.

Completed Jos 28m corner log cabin

Completed Jos 28m corner log cabin

Many thanks for an excellent product – if only I had a bigger garden, I’d build another! 

Keep up the good work Tuin – very impressed!

Thank you Mr W for sending this in. These pictorial reviews really help other people decide if they can install themselves. It also gives different ideas such as you roof cap and own made flower boxes, very nice!

If anyone would like to send in pictures and a story we always offer further discounts on products, presents and in some cases a cheque.

For all Customer pictorial reviews please see this page: Tuin Customer Blog Reviews

Tuin Ingrid Log Cabin Video Review

Mr and Mrs Y and recently finished their Ingrid Corner Log Cabin and were really kind in sending us in a picture of the building and also a video which you may enjoy and find very useful.

We did muck up a little and supplied three floor boards short, we of course sent them out the following day with our apologies. We do get things wrong sometimes unfortunately. It was very kind of Mr and Mrs Y not to mention this in their review but I do have to hold my hands up that all was not perfect.

With their building finished they kindly sent us their review with this picture:

Mr and Mr Y's Ingrid Corner Log Cabin

Mr and Mr Y’s Ingrid Corner Log Cabin

When we ordered the cabin we were a bit anxious as the price was much lower than a similar cabin we had seen locally. We shouldn’t have worried. The cabin surpassed our expectations. The wood was excellent quality and fit. No warps or splits. My husband completed it in 5 days on his own including painting it. All our neighbours have been asking to see it and we’ve had loads of positive comments about how lovely it is to sit in. The tuin team were fantastic to deal with, including the delivery driver. All in all we’re over the moon with it.

Delivery was exactly when quoted and the delivery driver was very very helpful.

This is their video review that followed on, it is very comprehensive and full of good tips and worth a watch. It is split in half with Mr Y giving commentary on installation and his impressions and Mrs Y comments on furnishings. My wife particularly enjoyed Mrs Y’s blinds that she has made which are very straightforward but very practical and must save a lot of money.

Thank you Mr and Mrs Y, I hope we can help in the future and please let us know if you require any of our products at a very good price as a thank you. This was a present to themselves for their 10th wedding anniversary and I wish you many congratulations and many more years together.

This video was filmed with one of our free video cameras we offer if customers feel they would like to send us a video, it’s a clever one and works well with iphones and ipads.

To see other customer experiences, build and ideas, this page links several of them together: Pictorial Tuin Reviews

Richard and Bjorn Tuin Review

Mr D was kind enough to send us a video review of two of his purchases which you may find interesting or useful:

Thank you Mr D, it was very good of you to send this and very useful for other customers.

Other pictorial or video reviews can be seen on our Pictorial Tuin Review Page