We are OPEN and still Delivering

As per the latest Government Guidance during these difficult times, and as an online retailer we are still open and delivering across the UK.

We are currently working with little disruption and have taken the following steps:

  • All of our deliveries are carried our by our network of professional hauliers and is completely contactless.
  • All of our office and admin staff are working from home utilising our cloud systems.
  • We have minimal warehouse staff in the UK and Holland operating with maximum distance between each other and with great care.
  • Our Show Areas and premises are now closed to the general public.
  • Delivery times are all displayed on the product pages, deliveries are currently running as normal.
  • We are no longer offering installations as a company. We are recommending self employed installers who follow the strict guidelines.

Please contact us if you require any further information.

 

Gunda Log Cabin Timelapse

Our Gunda Log Cabin measures to 4m x 4m, the ideal size for a summerhouse. And it’s easy enough to install, once you have a level base ready- See this customer who sent in a timelapse of their install, attached with this was some build notes from them.

I thought I’d add some notes and thoughts to go with these photos, as it’s been such a great experience.

The Customers Garden Before

The ‘garden before’ pictures are the bottom of my garden, it’s a wasted horrible bit of garden.
I’d been a bit nervous about the delivery, knowing it was going to be a large truck coming up a narrow’ish road, and it was. A very big truck. But the driver was brilliant and it could not have gone better. He even turned the truck round with ease, no dramas as I’d feared.

The cabin was delivered bank holiday Monday, but we weren’t building until the following Saturday, so I hand balled all the parts down into the garden on the Thursday night, stacked them into logical piles on pallets and put tarpaulins over it all ready for Saturday.

Friday night was spent reading the instructions over and over, and watching Richards video on how to build the thing. I’d watched it at least 10 times before we built, and even a couple of times since to make sure I got it right (apart from the door!). I can’t go on enough about how useful all of Richards videos, articles and blogs have been. I’ve soaked it all up and re-watched some of them mid-way through the job just to double check things as we went along. We started building, 2 of us, at about 8.40 Saturday morning. In the afternoon we got the roof boards on, and you’ll see in the video, even my other half went up on the roof to get them coated (I used OSMO from Brewers, quite expensive, pity I didn’t find the voucher for Brewers on your website until this week).

Roofing was started on the Sunday afternoon, I spent Sunday morning stood looking at it not quite believing we’d got this far. It took Sunday afternoon to shingle one side of the roof, then I booked. Wednesday off to complete it all as bad weather was due last Thursday. I got the 2nd side and the ridge done by 4pm last Wednesday. And it belted it down all day on the Thursday and not a single leak. I did order some IKO Shingle Stick from another supplier (sorry) but glad I did – used it on all the ridge tiles and edges, plus any tiles that felt a bit loose.

The floor still needs fitting, but I’m stuck for time for a couple of weeks now with work, and I’m still kicking myself for getting that door frame wrong – and you can see it in the video. I can’t praise the support and service from you guys enough, plus the support page on the website and the quality of the product. I’m really pleased with it.


Timelapses are always soothing to watch, thank you to the customer who sent in this timelapse of their Gunda Log Cabin. Looking for some more Log Cabin inspiration? You can find more reviews like this at: Tuin Pictorial Customer Reviews.

Is the Gunda Log Cabin too big or too small for your garden? We have hundreds of Log Cabins in our range to choose from.

Garden Sun Shade Inspiration

As we come to the end of January, you may start wishing for the sun to return. But when it does return, you need to be prepared for the hot sunny days where a shelter will be beneficial for your comfort and your health. This post will be filled with inspiration for your future garden shade area, perfect for outdoor dining or keeping the kids cool in the summer.

This post will also go in order depending on your DIY skills, so that the sun shade with the least DIY skills needed will be posted first and the one that requires the most skills will be last on the list.

Butterfly Arbour Shade

Perfect for your outdoor dining set, the Butterfly Arbour Shade will help provide some shade in your garden without it looking boring with it’s sleek and modern look.
Available in two sizes of 3m x 3m and 4m x 4m you can make sure you can fit all of the family under the neutral coloured shade, providing both comfort and UV protection to those under it.

Complete with powder coated steel poles and a fitting kit, you won’t need a lot of DIY skills to be able to assemble the Butterfly Arbour Shade. Although a drill and some smaller tools will be needed on site to be able to assemble the shade.

The Butterfly Arbour Shade is currently available with a 5 – 7 working day delivery window.

Garden Sail Shelter

A Garden Sail Shelter presents a contemporary way to create shade in the garden.
Available in two sizes as well as two colours, these man made woven sail shelters offer protection against harmful UV rays as well as being water, light and wind permeable. Each sail comes with a three year guarantee.

Depending on how you wish to install this sail shelter, the DIY skills needed to install the post structure for this shelter sail is generally higher than the Butterfly Arbour shown above. Attach this triangle shaped sail shelter to three poles for a modern garden centerpiece, alternatively attach one side to an existing structure and the third to a supporting post.

The Garden Sail Shelter is currently available with a 3 – 5 working day delivery window.

Sliding Garden Shade Awning

A Sliding Garden Shade Awning for your garden or patio. The shade canvas measures 3.0m x 5.0m. You can either buy this knitted synthetic canvas on it’s own to meet your own ideas or you can add various options such as fitting kits, closing system and a timber supporting structure in larch.
These sliding garden shade awnings provide much needed shade over your patio or dining area, of course when the sun is not too bright they can be fully opened. Available in sandy beige, ivory, white and silver grey- you can match the shade to your garden theme, whether it’s sleek and modern or a rustic setting.

Your DIY skills will need to be more developed with the Sliding Shade Awning depending on how you wish to install this, due to the fact that if you add the Larch supporting structure to your order you will need to cut to length according to the plans provided.

The Sliding Garden Shade Awning is currently available with a 3 – 5 working day delivery window.


These are just a few ideas on how you can provide some shade in your garden this summer, you can more products in our Awning and Shade Range. Including all of the products mentioned in this post, parasols and aluminium structures.

Or if you’re looking for something more heavy duty that can be used all year around, we also offer a range of Wooden Gazebos. We always have the best prices listed along with our FREE Roof Shingle Offer.

End Of Season Log Cabin Offer 2019

As we’re getting closer to winter, you may be aware that this time of year is the best time to buy a Log Cabin. And what is better than an already dropped price? Having an additional discount on the sale price.

Please note: Offer items are in a first come first served basis, make sure to read the product pages on our sale items to find out the quantity available.

While these items are listed in our Rummage Sale category, the ‘End Of Season’ items are in brand new condition. So, let’s take a closer look at just some of the products we have available in this offer.

Butterfly Arbour Shade

Be ready for next summer with our Butterfly Arbour Shade.

Moving away from Log Cabins, we also have two of our Butterfly Arbour Shades on this end of season offer- One of each size. While these aren’t suitable for use in the winter, you could be extra prepared for next summer- Enjoying time out in the garden while staying protected with this stylish UV solution.
One of each size available

Single Carport

Don’t let the rain and leaves ruin a newly cleaned vehicle.

The final product I will be showcasing on this post is our Single/Lean To Carport. The ideal product for this time of year, this single flat roof carport can be used as a lean-to or freestanding structure, allowing for use within a wide range of outdoor spaces. An economical alternative to a garage, this carport offers an effective way to protect one vehicle from the elements.
Two available

And these are just a few products on offer in our Rummage Sale category. Don’t forget that the products listed as part of our ‘End Of Season’ offer are brand new and in perfect condition.

Ulrik Log Cabin Customer Review

As the drastic change of seasons starts, you may find yourself weary of starting your Log Cabin build. It’s during these times where you should keep a close eye on the weather reports and strategically plan your build around those few days of mediocre weather.

Just as these customers have done, in this post we will see Mrs R’s process of building her Ulrik Log Cabin, completed with pictures to show us the process.


Mrs R writes as follows:

We went for the Ulrik 3.8 x 3.8m cabin as it wasn’t too big but a nice size for our garden.
The delivery came mid-morning and took about 3 hours to unload and put in some order for the build. It started to rain (typical) but we managed to cover all the parts.

The build is on a raised concrete base and so we opted for the free composite foundation beams that were on offer at the time of purchase. They are never going to rot.

The following day the job was started. I must admit it looked a bit daunting but definitely exciting. Once the first few beams are down and making sure it’s as square as possible the build is pleasantly easy. We had very little issues with bent or warped timbers, some needed a little persuasion, however.

As each timber was put in place it was treated to a generous splosh of wood preservative including all the joints. This made the build a bit slower but whose rushing. We didn’t go mad with the camera probably because we forgot but we did manage to take a few snaps along the way.

By the roofing stage (day two) the kids had deserted me. This was to be expected, besides there was little help they could offer. Again, this is straightforward just a lot of nails to bang in… Tongue and groove complete. It starts to look like a cabin – Nice!

We went for the free shingles (green) which we thought would look better than felt. My husband had never laid shingles before found it to be not difficult. The only hassle is working on the roof and its angle. The shingles can be unforgiving on the knees.

The wood that was first treated with preservative now gets a “ten Year” guarantee undercoat from Sandtex.

Had to send the kids down the side of the cabin as it was a bit of a squeeze to paint. They had more paint on them than the cabin! What colour to paint it though?

We went for Bay Tree green, again by Sandtex (10yr) with a Grey Stone satin trim.
Two coats of each.

Wasn’t going to bother with guttering but its surprising the amount of water that comes off the roof, and we have had some rain as of late.

With the outside complete apart from a bit of paint for the guttering fixings it was time for the inside.

The electrics first. We had already run in some armoured cable when we done the base. This was now connected to an RCD consumer unit with a separate breaker for a ring main and a lighting radial circuit.

Treating inside the Ulrik Log Cabin

The electrics complete and certificated. The inside was stained with Ronseal 10-year Natural Oak in satin twice. Now it was time for the floor.

2 x 2 beams, insulation in-between and moisture resistant T & G flooring followed by a light oak effect laminate top.

The floor complete it was just kitting it out. Of course, the T.V went in first. The kids said we can’t get Netflix. So, I had to get a Wi-Fi extender that works a treat thank God.
A cheap sofa and chair from DFS, a small coffee table in the middle. The table under the T.V was made by my daughter whilst in her last year at school. Very nice – it has LED lighting as well ☺
A beer chiller (of course) and some blinds etc.

That’s my review over. Still some bits to do but almost there. Hope you enjoyed taking a look. It was a lot of work but very enjoyable and anyone can do it.

Have fun!!


Who could resist a helper as cute as the dog! Thank you to Mrs R for sending in this review filled with progress images, now that the WiFi has been sorted to reach the cabin, I can see myself spending hours in this Ulrik Log Cabin!

Looking for some more Log Cabin inspiration? You can find more reviews like this at: Tuin Pictorial Customer Reviews.

Is the Ulrik Log Cabin too big or too small for your garden? We have hundreds of Log Cabins in our range to choose from.

Ongoing Log Cabin Maintenance

Hello and welcome to what we hope will be a useful guide towards the ongoing maintenance of your log cabin,.. yes it may come as a surprise to some but just like a lot things in this world, log cabins do need to be given some attention every now and then to ensure they operate as intended.

As much as we would love to provide you with a completley self contained product that requires zero maintenance it simply isn’t possible with this sort of building.

Please expect to have to perform the odd bit of aftercare.

Firstly lets just have a brief recap on how our log cabins are made so we can all get in the right frame of mind, by now you may have already installed your log cabin which means you will of already read our comprehensive online Installation manual, Or perhaps you’re still in the planning phase.. Either way we would suggest viewing the above to gain more clarity and perspective on the whole project.

Before I started working here, When I thought about “log cabins” I would immediately cast my mind to the wooden buildings seen in films made from round tree logs sitting in a snowy forest somewhere nice and peaceful.

Snowy Log Cabin

Yes Please

Who wouldn’t want to buy one of these right!.. although you may need to make some life adjustments or sell a kidney to stump up the funds for this sort of project.

Our Log cabins are made a little differently and we like to think more financially and garden friedly, they consist of flat solid wall logs in a range of different thicknesses, stacked ontop of one another which then interlock in the corners with Wind and Weather Proof Connections.

TUIN Log Thicknesses

28mm – 70mm Log cabin logs

These wall logs will in most cases rest on what we call Foundation Beams to bring them up and off your base, These foundation beams as a minimum will be pressure treated for longevity.

Standard foundation beam being used in a build

Basic Foundation Beams

Our basic foundation beams being used, protecting the first layer of wall logs

After the walls are up you then turn your attention to the roof, These come in different styles and sizes of course but the principle around them is the same. You start with the purlins/rafters then the roof boards are fitted ontop to create the solid wooden surface to fix your roof covering to.

Lauren log Cabin being built

The roof being assembled on our Lauren 70mm Log cabin

Then low and behold!.. you have yourself a whole new building ready to be used for whatever you can imagine. looking for Inspiration?

Completed Lauren log cabin

A completed Lauren Log cabin

Easy Right… for some more information about fitting out buildings please also visit our Fitting Tips page.

So there we have it, thats the building up and ready to use but how do you keep it looking and performing as it should and what other considerations should you be thinking about to keep it a fully functional, problem free living space.

Perhaps the best way to go through some of the key points will be to break the cabin down into six areas .

  • The Base for the cabin
  • The Foundation beams
  • The Walls of the cabin
  • The Doors and windows
  • The Roof
  • Additional hardware and extras

Bases

The base is the first thing that gets laid and is critical for both the longevity of your building and its actual construction, i’m not here to talk about what base you should or shouldn’t use as all these details can be found with in our Base Support page already and in reality theres very little you should ever need to do to maintain it which is lucky as it becomes very inaccessible with a lump of a log cabin sitting on top.

However something to look out for would be subsidence, Let’s say you have a concrete slab, or a compact base with slabs ontop.. with the weight of the cabin ontop has it sunk it some places?.. hopefully not but its worth keeping that in mind to check if you find yourself with a misbehaving building.

Or perhaps you have built the cabin ontop of a raised Timber Platform and under the weight of the building one or more of the corners have sunk throwing out the top level like this unlucky customers did.

A sinking timber base

See the gap?.. Customers timber base had sunk in the middle

Luckily for this customer the timber base was fairly accessible from underneath so he was able to add additional support to bring it back level

Another important aspect of a base is damp proofing, using a Damp Proof Course ( DPC for short ) or a Damp Proof Membrane ( DPM ).

A DPC is generally used underneath your foundation beams, its purpose is to protect the underside of your foundations from rising moisture seeping up through your base as well as providing protection against ingress from the outside.

There are other ways to achieve the same level of protection, My favorite is to use a TAR product, painted on both the underside of the foundation beams and ontop of the base that they sit on.. applying this thickly will also service in sealing the perimeter helping prevent ingress.

A DPM is used underneath the concrete slab or ontop of it, This will again protect the underside of the cabin/floor from moisture that tries to rise up from and through your base into the building.

Advice on using a Damp proof course in your base.

Advice on damp proofing

Ideas for Damp proofing

Preventing this moisture from rising up within the building is very important, it can cause unwanted growth with in the building as well as other Unwanted Issues.

garden-furniture-mold

Mold with in a cabin

Nasty right!

Ventilation does play a big part in preventing this as well which we will cover in a moment but if you notice that a once dry and mold free cabin starts to experience these types of problems then a review of your damp proofing may just be in order.

Foundation Beams

Now these are also very important and often in truth the cause of great confusion at first with our more traditional shed building customers.

So just qucikly, Unlike a shed where you would expect to see a row of bearers all running the same direction with a floor built directly ontop..

A normal Shed is built on top of a floor with joists underneath it

Typical shed base

A typical shed with bearers running the same way

The Foundation Beams servce a different purpose for this type of building. they only span under the perimeter of the cabin (as well as any internal walls that might be featured).. What they DO NOT do is span in the middle where the floor goes later on.

Their purpose is to raise the first logs off and away from the base which in turn protects them and provides added room in the middle for a floating floor

We have different types of foundation beams to offer but they all serve the same purpose and will generally sit ontop of your base with a DPC in between. This will generally be enough to keep unwanted ingress from entering your cabin but where two foundations beams butt join together you should think about enhancing these connections with a decent sealant/sealer.

Walls Of the cabin

Treatment

Well here we go, We are starting to get into this now as once the walls are up you can finally start to get a good feel for your log cabin, as we mentioned before the walls are made from individual logs stacked ontop of one another to from a very solid wall, They interlock in the corners with fancy Wind and Weather Proof Connections which go along way to ensure that your cabin remains water tight… But as we also explain this isn’t where the story ends and you cannot just leave the logs as as they are and expect the building to be watertight which leads us swiftly onto a very important part of maintaining your log cabin which is TREATMENT

So let’s start by asking a question.. What is Wood?

Wood is basically a Sponge and this is how you must treat each individual part of your cabin, if you zoom right into the endgrain you will see that it’s made from straws all joined together which was once used to draw water and nutrients to the parts of the poor tree that once needed it.

Wood is a sponge and is made up of straws all drawing water for the tree.

Close up of timber

Wood is a sponge and is made up of straws all drawing water for the tree

You can easily see from these pictures that when we look closely, wood is full of holes and it’s these little buggers that will be causing a problem as they all fill with water or, drain of water as seeing as we killed the poor thing there is no tension of water to rely on.

For an untreated piece of wood especially this is happening constantly, it’s trying to reach the same moisture content as the surrounding air. This is known a Relative Humidity and is a measurement of the amount of moisture in the air around us.

In the summer the wood will expel moisture and shrink, In the winter they will absorb moisture and swell which will loosen and tighten the joints where the logs interlock.

Prevention

A lot of customers will fairly just assume that “treatment” is only applied to safeguard the wood, stop it from rotting ect but in truth this is just one of its benefits. Treatment is also there to try and limit this natural movement as much as possible , We want to limit the amount those sponges can absorb and expel moisture by clogging up the straws contained with in.. we do this by reaching the recommended depth of microns.

A decent treatment should provide the following benefits

  • Protect the surface from weathering (including UV damage)
  • Seal wood on wood joints with in the cabins construction
  • Reach the required micon depth ( 80-120 microns ) which helps limit natural movement
  • Provide the desired finish for appearance

More information on Timber Treatment specifically can be found within the other support articles we offer

I hope the above all makes sense as it then leads on to the ongoing maintenance of your cabins walls. They must be treated and they must be treated well, please do not expect to only have to treat your building once throughout its life time and Please Please Please use a decent treatment in the first place.. To many times have we had angry customers over the phone shouting, screaming at how dreadful it all is and how disappointed they have become….to only find that they hadn’t applied enough coats, hadn’t kept up with the re-treatments or instead used a lets say “less expensive” brand in the first place.

We recommend our own Tuin Treatments or specific ones found locally such as Sikkens, Sadolins and Kingfisher which we know work well at achieving the desired depth of penetration.

You will not cut the movement out entirely which is fine because the building is designed to handle a certain amount without any fuss.

So as the logs of the cabin move ( which they will ) you may then need to re-treat certain areas of your walls, Paying particular attention to the end grain and interlocking notches where they join another wall, these are the most vulnerable parts. You will also need to make note and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines in terms of reapplying dates.

Overgrowth around the cabin.

This part is mainly aimed towards landscaping and storage rather than the cabin itself.

I’ll start by repeating one of our bold statements that we confidently make about the properties of timber, .. Wood will never Rot … we promise… Well, we also go onto say that so long as it is always ventilated, . so if it gets wet and is then allowed to dry it will be fine.

but what if it can’t dry?, What if air can never reach some parts of your cabin due to overgrowth, shrubbery, stacked rocks, Muck ect…

What if you decide to store things right up against the side of the cabins wall such as logs for a burner and leave them there for a few years while they season..

All of a sudden the wood will not be able to breath, vent and dry, Water could then sit there all winter which will eventually cause you all sorts of grief

Please be mindful of your walls, Make sure they are free from direct contact with anything which could cause a water trap, keep ontop of your gardening in those hard to reach areas as if you allow overgrowth to take over it can really ruin your day… you may even decide to call us.. complaining about the timber quality in the first place… “sorry but its wood” we will tell you.. “it only rots if its not allowed to vent” we will try and explain… you won’t like that.

Daisy log cabin

A Daisy log cabin free on all sides allowing decent circulation

Movement In log cabins

As we know by now the walls of the cabin move as the logs Expand and Contract throughout the seasons, the design allows for that just fine.

But what if you want to fix something to the wall like a mounted TV bracket or some shelving to store those garden tools.. I always tell people they can do whatever they like to these types of buildings so long as they follow the golden rule which is.. “You must always allow for vertical movement with in the logs” further explained with in our Dealing with Expansion and Contraction page

Another consideration for some, if your cabin happens to feature vertical posts that supports a canopy or large overhang you will need to periodically check that the adjustable post anchor that we supplied is set at the right height to match the rest of the cabin.

So let’s say you happen to own a building like our Kennet log Cabin

Kennet Log cabin

Our 28mm Kennet Log cabin

Remembering that the wall logs expand and contract, that front post will need to be adjusted from time to time as the seasons change becuase it will not move to the same extent, This is achieved by simply adjusting the nut that sits beneath the smaller plate on the anchor.

Post anchor being adjusted

Post support being adjusted

Doors and windows

I think the best way to approach this section will be to start by gently reminding you that just like the walls, The doors and windows are predominantly made from wood, you remember all of those straws?.. Sponges.. yup this wood is no different

Sure,..the doors and windows tend to be made from timbers which are laminated together which does improve their strength and reduces the possibility of movement but its still wood and it still has those straws.

Treatment

The correct treatment of the wall logs is very important.. but I would personally say that the correct treatment of the doors and windows is even more so and here’s why

Unlike the logs, The doors and windows do not have the same luxury of being fully and always supported.. The wall logs are locked in place and would do well to move in any unexpected sense.. but the same cannot be said for the swinging doors and windows… they are only connected to the cabin via hinges which means if the level of treatment isn’t correct or sufficient you may eventually encounter unwanted warps or twists to occur making them much harder to operate.

When first delivered the doors and windows normally arrive deep with in the pallet, This is on purpose as it provides needed support and compression while in an untreated state to prevent warps and twists… but at the very least the pallets are always banded tightly.

Doors packed within a log cabin package to protect them especially from warping

How our doors and windows come packed

Doors packaged with in the log cabin package to provide compression, preventing movement

You then unpack the doors and windows, Please store them flat and again under compression until ready for installation and treatment. While in situ you need to be very attentive with your treatment and often customers will not give them the attention they sorely require. Treatment should be applied both sides evenly and heavily.. To many times we have had customers upset becuase their doors have warped and to find out after that they didn’t treat it fully or correctly..

An extremely warped door.

A twisted/bowed door

A very twisted door, Do we think this was stored correctly prior to installation?

Hardware

Luckily, even the most twisted door can be corrected with the simple application of a Turn Button or Key,.. you would of already seen these in action in gardens throughout your life time i’m sure as we explain within our other Support Page so don’t panic too much but like most things prevention is better than a cure.

Please keep ontop of your door and window treatment.

Let’s move onto those hinges that we mentioned earlier, The doors and windows will come with their own style of hinges so you can operate and use them.. A lot of the time they are cup hinges that look similar to this

Two piece hinge forming a cup and spiggot. These can adjust the door in both planes.

Hinges commonly found on our buildings

Typical Cup Hinges

Now remembering what we discussed before, while treatment will limit the amount those pesky straws can absorb and expel moisture.. it will not cut it out entirely. You will at some point need to adjust the hinges of your doors and windows so please expect to do so, We go into more detail about this with in our other Support Page

A lot of the windows we send are top hung which operate from the inside via a simple Window Stay, we have all seen them and they do the job nicely

Its always easier to pre-treat the windows and doors before they are fitted so you can be sure of full coverage but sometimes this isn’t always possible. or perhaps it’s just time to recoat them following the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Top Hung Window

Common type of top hung window on our Emma Log cabin

If you find yourself having to unhang this type of window from the cabin please be aware of an important Safety point before you proceed. The hinges are only designed to keep the window in place with in the constraints of the supplied window stay which means if you lift it up further, the hanging part which contains the glass could slide off. Be ready to take the weight and seek help from another if needed.

Window Stay Limitations

Be careful when lifting the window beyond the stay limitations

While on the subject of door/window furniture, let’s also talk briefly about the actual locking parts, The cylinder, mechanism, latches ect

These are pretty much self contained but some considerations should be made such as occasionally adding some lubricant with in the metal workings so everything operates as it should.. you don’t want the metal parts seizing up.. also consider oiling the exposed elements to keep rust and corrosion at bay.

Also think about fitting a traditional hook and eye’s for your doors so that during use you can keep them securely open, what we don’t want is the wind catching your new doors and smashing them against the walls… thats how things break which nobody wants.

Hook and Eyes

Hook and Eyes being used on our Chloe log cabin

Glass

That’s about it for the actual hardware, but what about the glass that lets in that sought after natural lighting.. what do we possibly need to consider in terms of maintenance.

The panes of glass are dry fitted into a rebate contained with in the door or window, this is all done prior to delivery as it’s much safer to transport while in place.

The panes of glass can always be accessed if ever needed, they’re only held in by wooden beading which can be Removed With ease as we show with in our Glass Support Article

How the glass is held in place

Glass held in place with removable wooden beading

There’s a few things that we need to think about and one of them which is often not really considered is the seal between the glass and that wooden beading.. is it sufficient?

Going back to treatment by this point you will have fully treated both sides of your window or door right up to the glass.. This alone will typically be enough to prevent water from encroaching between the two surfaces and finding a way into the cabin.

You may also ask yourself, Surely they will come pre-sealed in some way right.. why wouldn’t they be…..?!

Well actually no, they do not. The glass is just dry fitted inside the rebate of frame… thats not becuase we couldn’t be bothered or we’re just trying to save a few pennies on some silicone here in the office to keep the accountants off our backs. It is dry fitted for good reasons!

Firstly, While the packing team do their best to pack the pallets in the safest way possible, we are talking about several tons of a log cabin being moved around and transported over huge distances by several hauliers so things can happen and your glass could arrive damaged ( rare but possible ) .. its glass.. it can break!

For those of you that have used silicone before you will know that it can act abit like glue at times.. so in the unlikely event that you receive your cabin and some of the glass is broken its then an absolute nightmare and down right dangerous to go around and dislodge the broken shards from the inner frame and in the past when units were delivered pre-sealed we received right ear falls from angry customers and rightly so.

Hopefully you agree and can see why we do not send them out pre-sealed, So once you have treated the frames in full and you then go on to notice ingress, all you need to do is either run some sealant along where the glass meets the exterior beading… or if you want you can remove the beading and silicone where the glass directly fits into the inner rebate instead.

Refitting the glass is the reverse of taking it out. If you wished to you could add a bead of silicone sealant although this is not necessary.

Sealant being used

Silicone being added with in the rebate

Movement in log cabins

Moving on slightly, Let’s think about how the frames actually fit into the walls of the cabin for a moment

Back to Movement again ( sorry ) The door and window frames are made with dry, fixing free U-channels which slot over the wall logs which means they will not constrict anything as it moves.

The U-channels are formed by what we call fascia boards… some call them architraves.. they’re basically just planks of wood screwed to the frame to create the U shape. These cover up the all important expansion and contraction gaps which are left above and to the sides of the frames ( please do not in-fill these gaps with anything )

Log cabin doors and window installation

Fascia boards fixed to the perimeter of the frame to create a U-Channel

 

So a few things we need to consider in terms of ongoing maintenance,

Have the inner sides of the fascias been treated correctly, fully? ..Well they should be as they also play a good part of sealing the outer perimeter of the frames.

Have you accidently sent fixings through these fascias which then also penetrate the moving wall logs underneath?.. if so please remove them as you will be preventing those logs from moving with the rest and you will most likely end up with gaps in between those logs.

Or, Perhaps you have noticed gaps around the door frame but are pretty adamant that there are no fouling fixings.. Try loosening the fascias and then re-tightening them.. if that doesn’t work then send us some pictures so we can have a look with you.

Maybe you have treated the underside of these fascias but you have noticed some signs of ingress? In this situation we may just need to enhance the seal between the two wooden surfaces.. Removing the fascias and adding silicone or draft excluders will normally cut that right out .. Just let us know and we are happy to send you some FOC.

Log cabin Extras

We can provide an array of Log Cabin Extras to complement your log cabin and their requirement depends mostly on the circumstance

Before we touched upon the importance of Ventilation which helps prevent moisture from building up within the sealed cabin, If you are not constantly in and out of your building should consider adding Air Vents to allow a continuous flow of air in and out of the building.

Also think about what you store within the cabin, White goods especially kick out a lot of moisture so be sure to install vents to combat that.

We also offer Storm kits as an extra, These are spring loaded metal rods which are used to ensure that the roof of the cabin remains tied down to the rest underneath, most applicable to those in very exposed areas or for those cabins with large exposed canopy/overhangs… please consider the application of a Storm kit

Shingle Glue is an option to consider, Very handy again for customers in exposed areas but generally if you are installing in the winter it is suggested to safeguard the shingles until you summer next rolls around.

We highly recommend Guttering for your log cabin, Not only will this help filter roof water to the desired location it will also serves in protecting the walls and perimeter further down from unwanted ingress and splash around the base.

We also sell a product which is very useful for coating the inside of the walls, Its called Impregnation Fluid on the website and is a very powerful Anti-rot, insecticidal treatment which you could consider, Please note that in inside of your doors and windows will need more than just this product alone.

The Roof

The roofs on these cabins should really be pretty self contained, so long as the roofing material was installed correctly there isn’t really that much you should ever need to think about.

Just keep an eye on any unwanted growth ontop, Moss can sometimes start to build up which should be removed as and when you can. Overgrowth can prevent the surface from ever drying out fully… also if you happen to install the cabin in the winter and moss manages to build up before the summer comes back around it could limit the amount of heat that gets to the tiles which is needed to bound all the those bitumen strips together.

An old log cabin shingled roof

Build up of moss

Serious overgrowth, Overdue a clear out we think

It will also be a good idea to periodically check underneath the roofs fascias for any nests which long term could start damaging the wood.

before those fascias are even applied they should be pre-treated as they are hard to reach once installed, Just like the other parts of the cabin you will need to revisit the treatment after a set timeframe and these higher parts are easily forgotten about and missed.

We hope this helps and we are happy to answer any unanswered queries that may come to mind, Please also revisit our installation manual for much much more.

Summary

  • Keep half a mind for your Base, Check the levels if you start to notice anything strange happening with the cabin on top
  • If you start to experience high levels of condensation within the building consider checking your damp proofing and joints between the foundation beams.
  • Remember that wood is a sponge, Keep on top of your treatment and please use something decent., Recoat those vulnerable areas and meet the guidelines set out on the tin.
  • Treat the doors and windows well and frequently
  • Fit hook and eyes to your doors to prevent unwanted wind damage
  • Keep your green fingers busy, Stop overgrowth from taking over and allow air to fully circulate around the cabin.
  • Do not create water traps around the walls of the cabin
  • Be mindful when fixing anything to the walls, Remembering your cabin likes to move
  • If you find water ingressing around the glass, they need sealing further
  • Guttering should always be fitted to better protect your cabin
  • Add Air Vents to prevent the build up of moisture
  • Consider the need for other log cabin extras
  • keep half an eye on your roof, remove overgrowth frequently

 

Log Cabin Pubs

Our Log Cabins have been put into use for a range of reasons: home offices, summer houses, workshops.. You name it! But one use that has become a huge trend lately is to turn the Log Cabin into a garden pub.

An Inside View Of The Laula Log Cabin

A Laula Log Cabin transformed into a colourful garden bar

Pubs are just a part of British culture, you can’t deny it – So imagine the convenience of having one in your own garden, you’d gain the jealousy of all your neighbours!

We’re lucky enough to receive a load of photos of these garden pubs- But I’m sure there are plenty more out there.

This Jenny Log Cabin has been transformed into this elegant gin bar, in the comfort of the customers garden! Completed with some lighting and seating, you may find them there all day.

This project has taken our Superior Gazebo as the base to this open plan pub. Using extra timber to create infilled walls to hang their impressive collection of decor- Along with building their own bar table. It looks like a lot of work has gone into this DIY project but we can definitely tell it was all worth it!

An Inside View Of A Julia Garden Pub

This neon lit Julia Log Cabin seems to be the perfect social location

With the Football being our national game a Log Cabin being used for a mancave/pub is the perfect solution to be able to concentrate on the game in peace- With freedom to cheer as loud as you want (keep the neighbours in mind though!)

The Aiste Log Cabin proves to be a popular choice for many intended uses, especially Garden Pubs.

And, if you use an appropriate Log Cabin Treatment, a Log Cabin can become a plain canvas for your creativity. Like these customers, who used the Olson Log Cabin to make a seaside escape pub ready for the summer ahead:

Though when thinking of a garden pub, stock is a very important factor.. The Julia Log Cabin is a great candidate for a garden pub, at 3m x 5m there’s plenty of space to place the bar towards the end and space seating around the rest of the length- Ideal for large drinking groups.

I wonder if we could turn one of our showsite cabins into a pub…

Yorick Garden Pub

The Yorick Log Cabin provides plenty of light for cocktail hour.

This is one of my favourite pubs that we’ve been sent in, using the Peter Log Cabin. These customers tried to stick to the British roots of culture by styling the interior like a traditional pub, from the peanuts to the coasters:

 

Just as I was writing this post – We even received another picture set of a converted Log Cabin, these customers used the Meaghan 4.5m x 4.5m Log Cabin as a spacial garden pub. A guaranteed neighbourhood favourite.

This American styled bar is within an Aiste Log Cabin – Just look at the bar table!

Aiste Log Cabin Bar

Another Aiste Log Cabin with a more traditional looking bar compared to the one above – This one appropriately labelled by the customer as “The Boozy Coo”

Aiste Log Cabin Pub

This is a recent Ingmar Log Cabin that’s been transformed into a garden bar – At 3.8m x 3m the Ingmar is an ideal size for those with limited space available, and they finished it all just in time for the England match!

This Justine Log Cabin has been converted into an ultimate lounge area, one side is fitted with a TV and sofa, the other is turned into this beautifully monochrome pub area – I love the monochrome look in this cabin, it makes the cabin look bright and clean.

Justine Log Cabin Pub

This Ben Clockhouse Log Cabin has definitely proved that a cabin can serve multiple uses- Which has turned into the ultimate social location, with a hot tub placed under the canopy and the enclosed cabin being used for a garden pub:

And hey, don’t just take our word for the quality of our Log Cabins – the Tuin Trustpilot Reviews even appear to show this trend. Comparing our customer service and products to some well loved beer brands!

Tuin Trustpilot Review

Beer and cake.. Its a solid suggestion!

Tuin Trustpilot Review

You can’t argue when it comes to Carlsberg

These are just a handful of the images our amazing customers send us, if you liked viewing these- Follow our Facebook, Twitter and Instagram pages we also have plenty of boards on the Tuin Pinterest page.

If a garden pub isn’t for you, there are plenty of other ways to utilise a Log Cabin, see our Uses Of A Log Cabin post for plenty of inspiration!